Hidden in the most northerly wine region of Italy, the vines of Alto Adige lie on steep alpine slopes. In this land of cultural blends, where what is Austrian and what is Italian does not matter anymore, winemakers have been making racy and fruity wines with grape varietals that develop here like nowhere else. The mild summer and the cool nights bring acidity and elegance to their gewurztraminer, pinot bianco and sauvignon blanc.
Being a small region, it has been traditionally managed by many cooperatives. Our favourite so far is Cantina Terlano. The natural high acidity and the oak and lees aging makes wines with enough structure to age for a decade. Far more than the typical expected life of these varieties. Moreover, the volcanic soils of the alpine town of Terlano produce wines of a seductive minerality when young that we expect to yield very subtle and perfumed aromas as they age.
We would also love to try their Pinot Noir and, if the occasion ever comes to us, their Rarity Pinot Bianco. A chance to taste a properly aged pinot blanc. Perhaps we should pass by Terlano sometime in the future. A flight to Verona, a trip to Pieropan, some skiing around Bolzano.
|Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Riserva – Vorberg 2017
|Green apple and white flowers on a background of crushed slate and chalk. Elegant minerality.
|The palate invites us with pear and elderflower. The midpalate reveals notes of cream from the malolactic fermentation which add textural balance to its mineral finish.
|The structure proves this wine is worthy of ageing. High acid, dry, medium body, medium alcohol.