Few tastings are as thoughtfully organised as Corney & Barrow’s relatively new annual Domaine de la Romanée-Conti “masterclasses.” The setting is impeccable: beautifully printed, well-researched materials, ample time to taste in silence, and, as a rare privilege, the presence of Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine, co-directors of The …
Category: Wine
Domaine Roulot – a leaner and more tense Meursault
Meursault: January 2024
If there was a time when Meursault was known for its toasty oak, buttery notes, and density, that era is essentially over. Meursault now comes in different forms. This shift has been primarily due to the influence of Jean-Marc Roulot in the region. Roulot prefers leaner profiles …
Visiting Cantillon and 3 Fonteinen – the best lambic producers
Brussels: December 2023
Lambic beer, despite its rising popularity, remains a somewhat difficult-to-understand niche segment. Having written our guide decoding what it is, how it tastes and how it’s made, the next logical step would be to introduce its best producers – Cantillon and 3 Fonteinen.
Both producers provide guided …
Decoding the world of lambic beers
It’s a curious phenomenon that lambic beer, now a cult beer internationally, has been largely overlooked in its native Belgium since the 1960s. Yet, an international revival has emerged following the rise of natural wines that began in France during the 1990s. Lambic beers, known for their spontaneous fermentation process, …
Bonneau du Martray under Kroenke: seeking precision and energy
Pernand-Vergelesses: July 2023
We had been planning a visit to Bonneau du Martray for quite some time. This was inspired by our session with John Kongsgaard, who held the Burgundian domaine in high regard. He had visited when Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière was in charge. The estate …
Alice et Olivier de Moor – moving away from the industrial Chablis
Courgis: July 2023
If there has been a new big name in Chablis in the last years, it would be that of Alice et Olivier de Moor. Their organic practices in the vineyards have demonstrated that even plots outside the Premier and Grand Cru appellations can produce wines with great …
Understanding Chartreuse – a comparative tasting
Paris: October 2023
Produced by the enigmatic Carthusian monks, Chartreuse is a liqueur like no other. What’s even more fascinating is that its precise recipe remains a secret, known to only two or three monks. As it becomes a cocktail-making favourite and with its production kept limited, obtaining Chartreuse is …
Jacques-Fréderic Mugnier – Understanding limestone better
Chambolle-Musigny: July 2023
On our recent trip to Burgundy we paid a visit to the Château of Chambolle-Musigny, home to Domaine Jacques-Fréderic Mugnier. Burgundy might be the best place to understand both terroir and soils, thanks to its myriad of well defined clos and lieux-dits delineated over centuries. The uniqueness of …
Domaine Ponsot – a new era after Laurent
Morey-Saint-Denis: July 2023
Domaine Ponsot stands as one of the most recognizable producers in Burgundy, and for a reason. The departure of Laurent Ponsot in 2017 surprised many, but we are pleased to report that under winemaker Alexandre Abel, the domaine is in good hands.
We had the opportunity to …
Nin-Ortiz: the beauty of Porrera, Priorat in a glass
Porrera, Priorat: December 2022
The craggy landscapes of Priorat in Spain hold a distinct allure. The steep slopes, intricate vines, and rugged, rocky soils yield not just quantity but exceptional quality, justifying the price tag that might seem steep at first glance. Among the pioneers of this vibrant region are …