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Wines from France
Few tastings are as thoughtfully organised as Corney & Barrow’s relatively new annual Domaine de la Romanée-Conti “masterclasses.” The setting is impeccable: beautifully printed, well-researched materials, ample time to taste in silence, and, as a rare privilege, the presence of Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine, co-directors of The …
Meursault: January 2024
If there was a time when Meursault was known for its toasty oak, buttery notes, and density, that era is essentially over. Meursault now comes in different forms. This shift has been primarily due to the influence of Jean-Marc Roulot in the region. Roulot prefers leaner profiles …
Pernand-Vergelesses: July 2023
We had been planning a visit to Bonneau du Martray for quite some time. This was inspired by our session with John Kongsgaard, who held the Burgundian domaine in high regard. He had visited when Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière was in charge. The estate …
Courgis: July 2023
If there has been a new big name in Chablis in the last years, it would be that of Alice et Olivier de Moor. Their organic practices in the vineyards have demonstrated that even plots outside the Premier and Grand Cru appellations can produce wines with great …
Paris: October 2023
Produced by the enigmatic Carthusian monks, Chartreuse is a liqueur like no other. What’s even more fascinating is that its precise recipe remains a secret, known to only two or three monks. As it becomes a cocktail-making favourite and with its production kept limited, obtaining Chartreuse is …
Chambolle-Musigny: July 2023
On our recent trip to Burgundy we paid a visit to the Château of Chambolle-Musigny, home to Domaine Jacques-Fréderic Mugnier. Burgundy might be the best place to understand both terroir and soils, thanks to its myriad of well defined clos and lieux-dits delineated over centuries. The uniqueness of …
Morey-Saint-Denis: July 2023
Domaine Ponsot stands as one of the most recognizable producers in Burgundy, and for a reason. The departure of Laurent Ponsot in 2017 surprised many, but we are pleased to report that under winemaker Alexandre Abel, the domaine is in good hands.
We had the opportunity to …
Montmartre, Paris: March 2023
Château Rayas is one of the most revered and sought-after estates in the southern Rhône Valley, producing wines that are unlike any other in the region. The estate is run by Emmanuel Reynaud, who inherited it from his uncle Jacques Reynaud, a legendary figure in Châteauneuf-du-Pape …
Sancerre’s wines normally spark up adjectives such as aromatic, herbaceous, zesty, lean or austere. Yet, the Sauvignon Blanc that Sébastien Riffault proposes breaks with all of those expectations. Notes of apricot marmalade, candied lemon and chamomile destroy any notion with which we used to consider Sancerre.
Sébastien works biodynamically and …
Having covered the resurgence of quality wine in Savennières, it is worth mentioning the rising star in Saumur, Domaine Guiberteau.
The attention that Clos Rougeard has brought to the hill of Brézé, once considered one of the best plots in France by the father of gastronomic reviews, Curnonsky, …