Napa Valley, California: June 2022

Kongsgaard is a family-owned winery that produces some of the most distinctive and sought-after Chardonnays in California. A pioneer of a style, his legacy is clear both in his wines and his disciples – such as Andy Erickson, Abe Schoener of the Scholium Project, Duncan Meyers of Arnot-Roberts or Nick Peay.

Founded by John Kongsgaard and his wife Maggy in 1996, the winery is located on the eastern rim of Napa Valley, high up on Atlas Peak Mountain. There, they make their wines in a cave with minimal intervention and maximum respect for the terroir.

The making of John Kongsgaard

John Kongsgaard was born and raised in Napa Valley, as a fifth-generation native. Son of a judge, John went to college to study literature. His interest in wine was sparked by working at Christian Brothers, one of the oldest producers in the region, in 1973.

He enrolled at UC Davis in 1976 to study viticulture and enology, where he met some of his future colleagues and friends, such as David Ramey, Lee Hudson and Cathy Corison. That year he also planted his first vineyard on his parents’ property in Stone Crest Drive, Coombsville, a cool-climate area of Napa Valley. The site, which he later named The Judge in honour of his father, was planted with Chardonnay at the suggestion of his neighbour André Tchelistcheff, the legendary winemaker of Beaulieu Vineyard.

After graduating from Davis, John worked at various wineries in Napa and Sonoma, such as Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Newton. The latter was founded in 1983 by Peter Newton, a British entrepreneur who had previously owned Sterling Vineyards and who had a deep admiration for the wines of France. He would send John every year to either Burgundy or Bordeaux to explore and learn from the best producers. During his tenure at Newton, John encountered one of his greatest mentors, wine consultant Michel Rolland. It was also there that he earned a reputation for bottling his Chardonnays unfiltered, like they did in Burgundy.

In 1995, John Kongsgaard teamed up with his wife Maggy to create their own label, Kongsgaard. They sourced grapes from their own vineyard, The Judge, as well as from Carneros growers like Larry Hyde and Lee Hudson, with whom they have a relationship that almost goes back to their UC Davis years. Initially, with limited funds and no desire for business partners, John and Maggy began by renting a corner of Luna winery, utilizing shared facilities in a cooperative arrangement with other small wineries. Over the course of a decade, they built their brand and reputation, while John continued to offer enological consulting services to other winemakers, providing a source of income for their fledgling winery.

In 2004, after an extensive search for the perfect location for a winery, the couple found their ideal spot on Atlas Peak Mountain. This decision was driven by their desire for specific zoning in Napa, with a preference for a property that could accommodate a vineyard and a wine cave. The picturesque region was mostly populated by Cabernet growers, but had little to no wineries. It was a fortuitous encounter with a neighbouring Cabernet producer that confirmed their choice. He had sold his grapes to John about a decade earlier, and John had recognized the exceptional quality and potential of the fruit from this region.

With their Atlas Peak winery established, they excavated a cave into the side of the hill in 2006, which marked the beginning of a more focused and harmonious era for Kongsgaard Winery. Today, 71-year-old John works in the cellar in collaboration with his son Alex and Evan Frazier. Alex oversees farming since 2011, while Evan handles the business side. John devotes most of his time to his cave, where he listens to music and crafts his wines. In a good year, they produce around 3,500 cases, with half of it being Napa Chardonnay from their Carneros growers and their own vineyards. They also create Syrah from Hudson’s vineyards and around 500 cases of Cabernet from Atlas Peak.

Forming a style in viticulture and winemaking

His passion for European wines was ignited through regular exposure to Burgundy and Bordeaux, thanks to the encouragement of Newton. John and Peter would taste the wines in California and select the most interesting producers to visit. With yearly visits to France, John gained invaluable insights from renowned producers such as Bonneau du Martray, Leflaive, Coche-Dury and Comtes Lafon, who practised fermentations with native yeasts and extended barrel ageing for their Chardonnays.

In 1988, John brought his research notes back to California and started experimenting. His Chardonnay vinification begins with ripe grapes that are gently pressed and treated with a touch of sulphur dioxide. He transfers the juice to barrels without any prior settling, adding a minimal amount of SO2 to delay the malolactic fermentation. The cold temperatures of his cave allow the fermentation with ambient yeasts to unfold naturally over a year. After two years, the wine undergoes a remarkable metamorphosis, transforming from a murky, dull liquid into a golden elixir with a bold character. He lets the malolactic fermentation run its course naturally, sometimes completing even before the alcoholic fermentation. The unfiltered wine exhibits freshness, complexity, and stability in the final product.

John set a new standard in Californian winemaking by crafting the first Chardonnay that was fermented with native yeasts, underwent natural malolactic fermentation, aged for two years in barrel without racking or stirring and bottled unfiltered. Allowing the wine to oxidise slightly during fermentation and ageing, John achieves an uncanny balance of power and tension. Soon everyone in United States would be copying him and the Burgundians.

Kongsgaard’s winery is a living museum of Burgundian winemaking traditions, as John faithfully applies the techniques he learned from Lafon’s father in the 1980s. While modern Burgundy wineries have adapted to adding more SO2 and bottling wines earlier as a response to premox, Kongsgaard remains steadfast in his commitment to the old practices. His signature style produces unique and distinctive Chardonnays in California, boasting high alcohol levels, high acidity, and minerality. The wines are characterized by powerful aromas and flavours of ripe orchard fruits, citrus zest, honeycomb, hazelnut, buttered toast, vanilla bean, clove, and cinnamon.

Beyond Chardonnay, he has seamlessly blended European influences with California’s potential. His connections with Bordeaux’s maîtres de chai, forged through barrel brokers, have facilitated a rich exchange of winemaking secrets and techniques, shaping his distinctive style.

Michel Rolland’s influence and frequent visits to Bordeaux have inspired Kongsgaard to craft opulent Syrahs reminiscent of Hermitage and elegant Cabernets with a classic touch. Emphasizing tradition, John studies the original methods from the regions where the varietals originate and applies them as faithfully as possible, finding the right vineyards to suit those techniques. He sources meticulously cultivated, low-yield grapes from a few select sites in southern Napa Valley, including his own Atlas Peak vineyards and those of Lee Hudson and Larry Hyde. John’s commitment to terroir and intimate knowledge of each vineyard shines through in his wines, which are both powerful and balanced, showcasing the best of California’s potential.

Another aspect that sets Kongsgaard apart is his approach to oak usage in winemaking. He used to age his Chardonnays in 100% new oak, but he has adapted to the modern times and reduced it to 80% since 2016. He is more cautious with Syrah, which is generally considered the most robust red wine, but is quite sensitive to oak influence. He opts for just 50% oak in Syrah production. For Cabernet Sauvignon, he uses only new oak, since the natural intensity of this varietal masks the presence of wood.

Visiting Kongsgaard with John

We got a rare chance to tour the winery and vineyards with no other than John himself. Nestled among the breathtaking mountain scenery of Napa Valley lies a winery that is not your ordinary tourist destination. The Kongsgaard Winery, founded by esteemed winemaker John Kongsgaard, has remained a hidden gem, intentionally elusive to the public due to the treacherous roads leading to its location. Following the county’s Health and Safety advice of not admitting regular visitors, John embraced this exclusivity, allowing him and his team to focus on what truly matters: the art of winemaking and the cultivation of their vineyards.

Sprawling across 13 acres in Atlas Peak, Kongsgaard grows an assortment of grape varieties, including Cabernet, a modest amount of Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Meanwhile, in Carneros, their growers produce Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. The winery remains small enough to allow John and his team to maintain a balanced life outside of winemaking, focusing on their passion for farming and the intricacies of crafting their exceptional wines.

The cellar is a cave, designed with the intention of accommodating an older winemaker and a single helper. John had experience building caves from his Newton time, so this time he dug it himself with his son and a couple of workers. It was built to allow for expansion, but its current capacity is only half utilized. The extra space in the cellar is still necessary, as each vintage spends two years in barrels, requiring twice the regular space required.

As we embarked on our wine tasting journey, we began with something truly unique – a 2021 Albariño, one of the very few in California. Sourced from the esteemed Carneros growers Lee Hudson and Larry Hyde, this rare Albariño is sold exclusively in Napa Valley restaurants. Kongsgaard’s Albariño boasts a distinct personality, offering a bright, citrusy flavour profile with no oak influence and no malolactic fermentation.

Our tasting continued with the soon-to-be-bottled 2020 Napa Chardonnay, sourced from Hudson, Hyde, and a few other select growers. Nestled within the natural caves of Napa Valley, the barrels are protected by a stable temperature of 12-14°C and humidity of around 70% year-round. Kongsgaard considers the cave as a vital component of the winemaking process, serving as part of the team, much like the people themselves.

As we sipped the Chardonnay, we found it to be a classic vintage, exhibiting a harmonious balance between oak and vanilla flavours. The wine’s acidity danced on our palates, providing structure to the lush, full-bodied mouthfeel. Interestingly, Kongsgaard revealed that their Chardonnays are unusually high in tannin due to their viticultural methods. By removing all leaves on the vines’ morning side, the fruit is exposed to sunlight, resulting in a stronger tannin profile. This adds an extra layer of power to the wine.

We then proceeded to taste some wine in bottle, where John introduced us to the Napa Chardonnay and The Judge. The Napa Chardonnay, with around 100 barrels produced annually, is the winery’s flagship wine. It is distributed across 20 different countries and various American markets. The 2020 vintage, however, saw a reduced yield due to the devastating fires.

In contrast, The Judge is a much rarer and more exclusive wine. With just 50 barrels produced in the year, it is primarily reserved for mailing list customers and a select few top restaurants. The Judge is cultivated in a small six-acre vineyard with a very low yield of 10 to 15 hectoliters per hectare. Despite its high price tag, the demand for this wine remains strong. As we tasted the wine, its distinct floral notes became apparent, followed by a subtle, stony finish. The wine’s elegance and complexity led to comparisons with Mersault, and particularly, the wines of Roulot.

The conversation then turned to the topic of reduction in wine, with John expressing his admiration for the reductive qualities found in some wines, particularly those produced by Roulot. However, he admitted that achieving just the right level of reduction is a delicate balance. John attributes the unique character of his wines to the presence of indigenous yeast strains, which are preserved through the winemaking process without the use of commercial yeasts or excessive SO2. His research at Davis revealed that different yeast strains are indeed present in each vineyard, and their influence on the fermentation process is indicative of the terroir.

Before returning to the barrel tastings, we continued with a 2018 Syrah. John explained that his Syrah vineyards have been a part of his winemaking journey since the time in the garage at Luna. When asked about the French influences on his Syrah, Kongsgaard cited Hermitage as the primary inspiration, with its distinctive black pepper and darker fruit flavours. In comparison, he finds Côte-Rôtie wines more delicate, akin to Burgundy and Piedmont wines, with their high acid structure.

The Syrah we tasted exhibited a dark, inky fruit flavour with black pepper notes, evoking a large sense of richness. The wine also had a savoury aspect, reminiscent of charcuterie, though we are told that this quality comes and goes throughout the wine’s development. 

He also acknowledged that Syrah, as a relatively new variety, has not garnered the same attention in Europe as varieties like Pinot Noir. The wild and unruly nature of Syrah vineyards fascinates Kongsgaard. He sees Syrah as a ‘wild child’ of red wine in Europe, chaotic in its genetics and difficult to tame. This unpredictable quality, however, adds an element of excitement for him in the winemaking process.

John led us to the next barrel, containing his 2020 Syrah. As we tasted the wine, he described the more pronounced aromas of salami and charcuterie present in this sample. The fermentation process for reds at his winery tends to be shorter compared to the whites, with red fermentations usually completing within a month. The higher pH and warmer fermentation temperatures contribute to these shorter durations.

When asked about incorporating whole bunches, John explained his preference for destemming the grapes. While whole bunch fermentation can offer unique textures and flavours, John prefers the tannins that come from destemmed grapes. He experimented with open-top fermentation for a while, hoping to eliminate the undesirable “charcuterie with H₂S” aroma that sometimes plagues Syrah wines. However, he soon realized that this method compromised the wine’s aromatic qualities too much. He switched to using small tanks with lids, which helped preserve the more pleasant and complex aromas in the wine. He also noticed that by the time of bottling, the wine’s aroma profile had evolved and refined, leaving behind any unpleasant “stink”.

Discussing the influence of climate and soil on the Syrah’s aroma, John highlighted the uniqueness of growing the grape in a colder climate, such as the one near the bay. Cold climate wines can develop some of the special aromas present in his Syrah, but often come from less interesting soil types. He stressed the importance of selecting the right vineyard site, praising Arnot-Roberts for their success in this regard. However, he also cautioned that one must find a balance between cooler climate and lower body in the wine, and the risk of H₂S formation. Warmer climate Syrahs can take the funk better, cooler climate Syrahs can smell like “charcuterie with the H₂S being the captain of the world” (sic).

John Kongsgaard was particularly excited about a recent collaboration with Graham McDonald, a close friend of his son, Alex. The Atlas Peak vineyards had suffered from taint in 2020, so they teamed up to grow a crop from McDonald’s grapes in the To Kalon region, near Mondavi. This region, in the heart of Napa Valley’s legendary terroir, fascinated Kongsgaard with its soil composition. Formed millions of years ago by mountainous forces, the soil was gravelly and slightly sloped, creating ideal conditions for wine-making.

Kongsgaard and McDonald’s partnership yielded five barrels of Cabernet Sauvignon from 60-year-old vines, a blend that left a profound impression on Kongsgaard. He describes the wine’s fragrance as the epitome of Cabernet, with a bright signature and just a hint of pyrazine to identify the varietal. The wine’s purity and elevation impressed him so much that he found it almost comical, and so did we. The tannins, we noted, were velvety soft, making the wine feel ready to drink even though it was due to age for a year more.

Recalling his first trip to Bordeaux in 1983, Kongsgaard remembers how the French were embarrassed by the sheer deliciousness of their 1982 wines, which were not traditionally expected to taste so good in their youth. The exceptional quality of the 1982 vintage, however, set the stage for future greatness.

The vineyards of Atlas Peak

After our tasting John graciously guided us through his meticulously cultivated vineyards. As we strolled, he elaborated on the unique weather patterns that govern his vineyards, describing the significance of the rainfall and the cooling effect of the nearby San Francisco Bay. He shared his irrigation strategy, noting the importance of adapting to the increasingly unpredictable weather, and mused on the various opinions regarding ideal diurnal temperature changes in the region.

Through our walk, the surrounding landscape became a focal point. Kongsgaard painted a vivid picture of the geological forces that shaped the region, including the volcanic activity that gave rise to the nearby Coombsville area. He gestured to The Judge vineyard, set in the rocky, volcanic soil, and spoke of the broader Coombsville region with the passion.

Kongsgaard’s enthusiasm for his craft and love for the land was unmistakable. The breathtaking view of the foggy mountains and valleys below seemed to mirror his own energy, and he eagerly pointed out various landmarks, like Mount Diablo. At one point, he directed our attention to an unexpected sight: a replica of the Athenian treasury of Delphi, crafted from Douglas fir trees killed in a fire. This whimsical touch added a classical dimension to the property and underscored Kongsgaard’s artistic approach to winemaking.

In the presence of such a knowledgeable and passionate winemaker, it was easy to appreciate the exceptional terroir and the dedication that goes into each bottle produced at Kongsgaard’s winery. Our visit, filled with anecdotes and insights, provided a profound understanding of the interplay between nature, art, and science that shapes this extraordinary place and its exquisite wines.

John generously gave us a few more bottles to taste back home, which we did over the following year. The notes are below.