California: April 2022

The fabric of a wine narrative can often be intricately woven with the intimate experiences that come from the passion-filled explanations of a winery owner or winemaker. During our exploration of Kongsgaard and Arnot-Roberts, this was decidedly so. As we transition to a new chapter in our exploration of Sonoma County and Napa Valley, we venture into experiences mediated by proficient salesmen rather than the proprietors or winemakers themselves.

Whilst lacking the intimate revelations of an owner or winemaker, these encounters provide a unique perspective on commercial communication in the industry, offering us a more generalized view of the region’s viticulture and winemaking processes. From the respected practices of Ridge and the devoted efforts at Peay Vineyards, to the expressive terroir-focused approaches at Corison, these experiences, though varied, continue to enrich our understanding of the enigmatic world of Sonoma and Napa wines.

Ridge Vineyards

Ridge is a one of the most renowned and influential Californian wineries, established in 1962. The winery operates two sites: one in Santa Cruz Mountains, where it crafts its acclaimed Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon and some cuvées from Paso Robles; and one in Sonoma County, where it specializes in Zinfandel field blends from old vines.

The Sonoma location comprises several vineyards, such as Lytton Springs, Geyserville, Pagani Ranch and San Lorenzo, that are planted with Zinfandel and other varieties such as Petite Sirah, Carignan, Mataro and Alicante Bouschet. These vineyards are over 120 years old, and have survived phylloxera, Prohibition and urbanization. Naturally, the vines are replaced as they perish with the same varietal to maintain the field blend composition. This is illustrated in the image of Lytton Springs: new plantings of Petit Syrah and Zinfandel have been made. The proportion of Petit Syrah, Carignan, etc added is adjusted looking for balance every vintage.

The winemaking at Ridge is based on tradition and has managed to stay like that even as the trends have led to more modern and industrial techniques or extensive use of French oak. The grapes are harvested by hand, sorted carefully, fermented with native yeasts, aged in American oak barrels from Minnesota and Tennessee, and bottled unfiltered. The oak barrels are used up to ten times, to avoid overpowering the fruit with wood flavour. The winery does not exactly practice minimal intervention, adding water or acid when necessary to adjust the alcohol or pH levels of the wines. This is especially common for the riper fruit from the warmer climates like San Lorenzo or Paso Robles.The wines from Ridge are renowned for their character and consistent quality. They reflect the personality of each vineyard, although the exact blend changes each vintage. The Zinfandel blends are rich and spicy, with layers of red and black fruit, licorice, tobacco and earth notes. They have a distinctive Ridge signature, which can be sensed in the subtle aroma of oak that permeates the winery. They generally age very well.

Peay Vineyards

Peay Vineyards is a hidden gem in the far northwestern corner of the West Sonoma Coast, three miles from the Pacific Ocean. It is a family affair, with brothers Nick and Andy Peay growing the grapes and Nick’s wife Vanessa Wong making the wines. After years of searching along the California coast for the perfect site to grow cool-climate varieties, they bought an old apple orchard and sheep ranch in 1996 and planted 53 acres of vines in 1998. They grow Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, but not all of them are bottled every year.

We visited their idyllic house on top of the hill that overlooks the vineyards, where they hosted us for a tasting. The vineyard is located next to the San Andreas Fault, which created layers of sedimentary soil with shells and quartz, uncommon in the rest of California. The Syrah site is one of the coldest in California, resulting in wines with high acidity and low alcohol. The wines are very fresh and vibrant thanks to the cold Pacific winds that cool down the vineyard.

The winery is also committed to sustainability and environmental stewardship. They use organic practices in the vineyard, rely on solar power for their energy needs, and collect rainwater for irrigation. They also support local wildlife and biodiversity by preserving habitats and planting native plants.

Corison Winery

Corison Winery is a small family farm that produces elegant and age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignons in Santa Helena, in the heart of the Napa Valley. Cathy Corison, the winemaker and founder, has been making wine in Napa since 1978, and started her own label in 1987. She has always followed a fresher style of wine, avoiding over-ripeness and excessive oak. Her wines are balanced, graceful and expressive of their terroir.

We tasted her wines in the middle of the Kronos vineyard, which is one of her estate vineyards and one of the oldest Cabernet vineyards in Napa. The vines are 50 years old, except for some younger ones that replaced those affected by phylloxera. The Kronos vineyard produces wines with more depth and finesse than her blend, which is sourced from other growers that she has long-term relationships with. Her 2011 vintage was particularly impressive, showing how well she can handle cooler years. Her wines reminded us of Snowden, another producer that favours a more restrained approach to Cabernet Sauvignon. The soils are gravelly and well-drained, and she uses irrigation and 50% new oak.

Hirsch Vineyards

Hirsch Vineyards is one of the pioneers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the True Sonoma Coast, a remote and rugged region that is influenced by the Pacific Ocean. Founded by David Hirsch in 1980, the vineyard has become a source of sought-after grapes for many Sonoma-based wineries (such as Littorai, Williams Selyem or Kistler), as well as producing its own wines since 2002.

The vineyard is divided into two ridges, each with different blocks that have been studied over time to understand the terroir. The East Ridge was the clear winner, producing wines with more concentration and complexity than the others. Apart from Block 8 and East Ridge, the wines seemed a bit less concentrated or a bit edgier, with more rustic tannins or less complexity. Overall, Hirsch wines are on the riper side of the spectrum, compared to other producers on the Sonoma Coast like Occidental or Peay. Hirsch Vineyards offers a shed-like tasting room that is a bit impersonal, but the staff was friendly and knowledgeable. They also recommended some other sites to visit, such as Drew and Marina Layer.