Our time in the capital of South Korea, Seoul, carried us to the heart of Korean gastronomy: the ubiquitous Korean barbecue, or gogi-gui. Transcending the mere act of feasting, the Korean barbecue is an indispensable societal fixture where clusters of people huddle around a smoky grill, their laughter and chatter punctuated by the satisfying sizzle of meat and the clink of soju and beer glasses.
Understanding Korean barbecue
The choice of meat varies widely from the conventional pork and beef, to the slightly rarer chicken, eel, or even offal. The meat can be enjoyed in its purest form, unseasoned and grilled to perfection over charcoal, or as ‘bulgogi’, an classic Korean dish where the meat is marinated in a mix of soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, and pepper.
Integral to the Korean barbecue experience are the accompanying banchan—little condiments comprising a medley of tastes and textures. This includes sauces like ssamjang or doenjang, pickled vegetables such as perilla leaves or daikon, and pieces of garlic destined for the grill. Of course, staples like kimchi and an assortment of fermented namul are always served.
Banchanis usually accompanied by fresh leaves such as perilla and numerous varieties of cabbage. These leaves serve as vessels, used to wrap morsels of grilled meat, condiments, and a dab of rice to create ‘ssam’ – a delicious bite-sized bundle. Rice, frequently served plain, can also be grilled on the barbecue. A familiar side is the steamed egg (Gyeran-jjim), which reminds one of chawanmushi. To round off the meal, a comforting bowl of soup like doenjang soup or kimchi jjigae are typically served.
After visiting about ten different Korean barbecues, our clear favourites were Ggupdang and Geumdwaeji Sikdang, both specialised in the art of grilling pork. Offering a limited selection of cuts and sides, their focus is firmly on quality rather than quantity. While their prices might be on the higher side relative to their competitors, they provide a chef who grills the pork at the table for each customer. This eliminates the risk of the customers overcooking the meat and ensures a higher degree of consistency in the food.
Ggupdang
Ggupdang, a recent addition to Seoul’s barbecue scene, was founded by former staff members of Geumdwaeji Sikdang and has quickly secured a fervent following. It offers five cuts of pork: shoulder blades, pork belly, sirloin, flank or hanger steak (labelled as ‘diaphragm muscles’), and grilled back ribs; the quality of their pork is second to none. This establishment also offers a great banchan selection with perilla leaves, wasabi, pickled ginger, pickled garlic scapes, jalapeño, and kimchi of scallion and namul.
The side dishes here are truly exceptional. Their doenjang jjigae strikes the perfect balance of depth and lightness. The rice, developed under the advice of a Japanese culinary consultant, is made from high-quality short-grain Korean rice that is probably cooked in dashi. This imbues it with the smoky, marine imprint of katsuobushi, or bonito flakes. The staff recommends pairing it with their shoulder blade cut, as though it was a pork-based sushi. On the menu, you’ll also find truffle jjapaghetti and a refreshing, summer-friendly cold noodle dish.
All their pork, sourced from Korea, is of the Iberian black breed, known for its rich, intense flavour profile. The sirloin, with its more balanced fat-to-tenderness ratio along with the rich pork belly are particularly noteworthy. However, the true standout is undoubtedly the onglet-likecut, which when not overcooked, it offers an exceptional depth of flavour and tenderness.
Geumdwaeji Sikdang
Geumdwaeji Sikdang, or the Gold Pig, is a bustling multi-storey establishment that attracts a large crowd at all times. The popularity of the place is such that patrons often have to wait for over an hour for a table.
Here, expect to choose from four cuts of pork: belly, neck, cheek, and skin, or a selection of all. This set menu, especially suitable for a larger group, includes the full range of meats, leek, and king oyster mushrooms. A surprise addition of grilled Italian basil works surprisingly well with the grilled pork.
Side dishes at Gold Pig include fresh perilla leaves and cabbage, ssamjang. A distinct condiment on offer combines the flavours of gochujang and dried mackerel paste, delivering a deep umami that complements grilled pork perfectly. Every customer is also served rice, and a delicious comforting side of kimchi jjigae, a traditional stew or soup with tofu, kimchi, and noodles.
