Seoul: June 2023
Within the gastronomic heart of Seoul, a recently opened establishment is making its mark – 1994Seoul. Situated on the bustling periphery of the increasingly trendy Hongdae district, it reinvigorates the city’s tea and dessert landscape with a quintessentially refined afternoon tea experience.
1994Seoul dazzles the eye with its harmonious fusion of Western and Korean aesthetics. Its modern architecture features sleek concrete cladding and expansive windows that invite natural light. Yet, behind this cosmopolitan exterior lies an interior imbued with refined Korean charm. The heart of the venue is the sophisticatedly adorned tasting room, where a tranquil sanctity reigns. Dimmed lighting, a gentle fountain, and a forest soundtrack create a soothing ambiance that transports the patrons to a serene oasis. The expansive bar fosters dialogue with the staff, who share their insights and stories in hushed tones, creating a space for quiet contemplation and enjoyment.
The afternoon tea experience is an artfully curated progression of tastes and aromas, presenting a medley of meticulously prepared beverages and sweets. As a celebration of Korean traditional craftsmanship, they have stocked themselves with a beautiful selection celadon, baek-ja (white porcelain) and lacquerware boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl. These are used to present all the sweet servings.
The adventure commenced with a refreshing peach juice cocktail, gently laced with mint, setting the tone for the procession of servings to follow.
The first bites were a set of songpyeon, a rice cake similar to injeolmi traditionally served during the Dano festival. It had been prepared using ingredients from Jeju Island, including a coating of roasted pinenut powder.
The second treat was a unique black jelly, its flavour evocative of black sesame halva. The jelly, beautiful in its presentation, is delicately balanced by an accompanying green tea reminiscent of Japan’s subtle gyokuro. The green tea, Ujeon, was a premium variety produced from tender leaves harvested before Gogu (a term in the lunar calendar). This tea, traditionally cultivated and prepared by a tea master, Yong Eun-soo, in the Hadong region of Jirisan, offered us a nuanced introduction to the world of Korean teas.
The ensuing confection hails from the opulence of the Joseon dynasty: a reinterpretation of the customary yakgwa, a glutinous rice king’s cake. Whereas the rendition we had in Mosu didn’t convince us with its stickiness and overwhelming oiliness, 1994Seoul’s take on the dish was commendable for its flawlessly harmonised flavours. It was neither overly sweet nor oily and was crowned with sesame seeds for a savoury twist.
The menu proceeds with a black tea, Jin Eun Gong Cha, a Yellow Tea from China’s Anhui Province paired with a savoury snack made from delicate, fluffy Kasutera (Japanese Castella cake). The cake was offered with a choice of coatings: one can opt for a powder of roasted pine nuts or a potent fish roe, both of which added a savoury dimension to the bite.
Following this, a plate of prawn crackers served with a gentle jalapeño mayonnaise is presented. This humble shrimp flavour and black tea pair surprisingly well, harmonising savoury notes with astringency.
The experience culminates with a silver needle white tea, known for its subtle fruity notes. This tea is elegantly accompanied by a refreshing strawberry sorbet and a brochette of candied strawberry and carrot and a single pine nut.
At a price point of 60,000 won per person and requiring a reservation via Naver‘s booking system1, 1994Seoul promises a unique, immersive afternoon tea experience. Its fusion of modern and traditional Korean flavours and ambiance showcases well the current gastronomic trends of Seoul.