As a globalised city, Seoul combines a great offering of Western-inspired pâtisseries with numerous opportunities to try authentic Korean desserts. During our stay in Seoul we have been able to enjoy outstanding bingsu, coffee, tea and rice cakes (tteok). This article walks you through the city in the search of the best examples of these.
Bingsu and gelato
At the height of a hot Korean summer, there is no better way to refresh yourself than with delicate mounds of ‘bingsu’. This isn’t your ordinary shaved ice. In contrast to the grainy, water-based shaved ice counterparts like the Japanese kakigori, bingsu is made from a dairy mixture, predominantly milk and sugar. It’s then carefully shaved into an array of tiny feather-like flakes that resemble snow. This snow-like texture is not only aesthetically pleasing but also a delight on the palate, melting instantaneously upon contact.
This foundation of dairy-based ice is typically adorned with an array of toppings, ranging from fruit syrups (think strawberries, peach, and apricot) to the classic red bean paste, or even a lashing of condensed milk.
Our quest for the finest bingsu in Seoul led us to Bubing, a local haunt located off the main street near the Gyeongbokgung Palace. While other bingsu outlets like the popular chain Sulbing do their bit to honour this Korean classic, Bubing stands a cut above the rest with their ethereal textures of snow. Locals adore Bubing, but its reservation system, which requires a local phone number, might deter tourists. The black sesame bingsu we sampled here stood out with its feather-light ice texture a sauce reminiscent of tahini made from black sesame that remarkably complemented the ice. The hidden rice cakes sprinkled with soybean powder hidden at the base of the bingsu added an interesting dimension of texture to the dessert.
Bubing further impressed us with their rice bingsu – a mound of milk snow topped with a thin rice pudding and finished with a dash of cinnamon. The bottom of the dish here held another textural counterpoint: popcorn. Their strawberry bingsu is just as exceptional, highlighted by a fresh, vibrant strawberry syrup much better than the heavily cooked flavours of conventional syrups. A welcome change indeed.
Seoul’s cold desserts are not limited to bingsu. For ice cream, go to Zenzero. This gelateria excels at both traditional Korean flavours and as well as the classics. The textures are rich and silky smooth texture, similar to the traditional Italian style. Their menu ranges from familiar options like pistachio to novel creations featuring gamtae – a type of Korean seaweed – their menu offers an inventive range of options. Noteworthy flavours include hojicha, Korean melon, tomato, and a daring combination of gorgonzola and honey. While wine isn’t its main draw, Zenzero’s atmosphere, echoing an Italian deli and wine bar, presents an enticing destination for any dessert lover in Seoul.
Western speciality coffee, cafés and pâtisseries
Seoul’s coffee culture has grown exponentially, housing an intriguing mix of speciality coffee shops, European-style pâtisseries, and vibrant cafés.
Fritz Coffee is a decent speciality coffee roaster with several locations spread across Seoul. Of these, the one nestled by Changgyeonggung Palace, amidst a tranquil museum setting and a surrounding garden, proves to be a particular favourite. Yet, it’s their pastries that often steal the show. Leading the way is the kouign-amann —a small, yeasted croissant dough, resplendent with caramelisation and carrying a heady aroma of butter. Unlike many Seoul establishments, Fritz’s pastries nails the aesthetic without compromising on the butter flavour, choosing to incorporate rich French butter that lifts the taste of the pastries to an exceptional level.
Next in line is Tartine, a branch the San Francisco bakery recognized globally for its sourdough bread revolution. Seoul houses several outposts of Tartine, thanks to the founders Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson love for Korea. Korean chefs Edward Lee and Hyunhee Lee are in charge and some locations, like their bakery-café in Dosan Park are beautiful. However, they serve a slightly different take on the iconic Tartine bread. While it has the trademark crispy crust and yogurt-like tang, it misses the deep, dark bien cuit crust signature to the San Francisco original. And even if the pastries are not as good as their bread, they undeniably live up to the Tartine standards we know from the US.
While Seoul’s café scene is replete with modern minimalist designs, Kotton Café stands out with an ingenious blend of granite and traditional Korean hanok aesthetics. Located near the city’s royal precinct, this off-the-beaten-path gem offers creative drinks such as the fluffy – an iced latte crowned with a thick whipped vanilla cream, our favourite; or a delicious rosehip iced tea adorned with a scoop of lemon sorbet.
Finally, in the eclectic neighbourhood of Itaewon, you’ll find Jaein, a pâtisserie that doubles as a cocktail bar. The pastry offerings are diverse and sophisticated, demonstrating a reverence for Western techniques, but with a playful spin. A delicate dessert with kiwi, mango, and dill flowers makes for a refreshing summer treat, while a Korean interpretation of millefeuille, filled with burdock cream, presents an ingenious twist on the classic. Other notable examples are the delicious mulberry tart with vanilla and cognac and their chestnut bonbon glazed in chocolate.
Traditional Korean sweets confectioners
Traditional Korean sweets are hard to find outside Korea and we consider them a must for any foodies with a sweet tooth like us. The city boasts a variety of confectioneries, the ones below are a good place to start exploring.
Tucked away in an unassuming corner of Gangnam is Dosukhyang, a charmingly humble establishment renowned for its traditional rice cakes, or injeolmi. Injeolmi, made from carefully sourced rice, are painstakingly pounded into a smooth, slightly chewy dough and then enveloped in a dusting of roasted soy bean powder. The subtle flavour of rice with the roasted soy beans makes them incredibly addictive. Beware, Dosukhyang is very popular and they require you to make a reservation before you purchase them. For an authentic Korean experience, we recommend you pair the cakes with shikhye, a sweet Korean rice beverage whose malted notes balance the savoury flavour of the injeolmi. Kisoondo’s shikhye is a great choice. We find that its pure rice flavour dominates and the malt just adds a sweet molasses note.
From here, our journey leads us to a newer establishment – Yeonli Huije, specializing in gaesong juak—tiny, honey-preserved, rice flour-based doughnuts. Their unique flair stems from the yeast found in unpasteurized makgeolli, allowing the dough to rise and puff up. Soaked in honey syrup, each bite of the gaesong juak offers an interplay of chewy, crispy and sticky textures, with the honey’s sweetness seeping into the rice flour’s softness. Yeonli Huije also experiments with a range of toppings. The ones with walnut and dried persimmon were our favourite.
Our journey wraps up at Jeokdang, situated close to Myeongdong, the heart of Seoul’s commerce. Jeokdang prides itself on its yokan – a dessert with Japanese origins, now beloved by Koreans. This red bean jelly varies in texture, from a smooth gelatin-like consistency to slightly grainy. Jeokdang’s version distinguishes itself with bold flavours – be it apple, green tea, peach, or mandarin, each is vividly captured. To top it off, their thoughtfully designed packaging ensures every flavour gets its dedicated labelled box.
Finally, in Hongdae we strongly recommend the afternoon tea at the newly opened 1994Seoul, about which we wrote recently here.