Milan: September 2022

Uruguayan-born Matías Perdomo has swiftly risen through the ranks of the food world, infusing the classic Italian cuisine with his ingenious interpretations and out-of-the-box techniques. His journey, achieving Michelin stars in different locations, is a testament to his profound love for cooking and his ability to bring his eclectic creative vision to life.

From carpenter to chef: the advent of Matías Perdomo

Matías Perdomo was born in Uruguay amidst the turbulence of a military dictatorship that pushed his family to navigate through Argentina, Brazil, and Denmark, in pursuit of safety. Upon their return to Uruguay, the adolescent Matías veered away from the prescribed path of education at the age of 14, finding himself in the wood-scented atelier of his uncle, as an apprentice carpenter. However, a fateful cooking class revealed a new path to him, sparking an insatiable passion for cooking that would become his life’s work.

The young culinary aspirant ascended rapidly, displaying talent and tenacity beyond his years. By 18, Matías was already an executive chef, deftly managing a team at a chain of Italian restaurants. This chapter of his life was a prelude to a more profound journey he would undertake upon his arrival in Italy at the age of 21.

Aided by a friend, he found his way into the bustle of Al Pont de Fer, a storied Milanese restaurant. Here, amidst the clatter of pans and the tantalising aroma of pasta and beans, risotto, and tripe, Matías found a culinary canvas to transform.

Under his aegis, Al Pont de Fer blossomed beyond its traditional Milanese roots. Rustic osteria offerings were reimagined, evolving into innovative tasting menus that intrigued and delighted gourmet palates. In 2011, this creative tour de force culminated in a Michelin star, a shining acknowledgement of Matías’s capability to reinterpret the quintessence of Milanese cuisine.

Further honing his culinary prowess, Matías embarked on stages in Spain around 2011, notably at Martín Berasategui and El Celler de Can Roca. The latter, in particular, profoundly reshaped his culinary vision upon his return to Italy. His Tropea onion dish, the potato and octopus tart, the Joan Mirò calamari or his Lego dish This is not a game come from this period.

In 2015, fuelled by a decade and a half of crafting gastronomic experiences in Milan, Matías embarked on his most ambitious venture yet. He opened Contraste, a restaurant that quickly became a coveted destination for Milan’s epicureans. In 2017 is was awarded a Michelin star which it has held since then.Building on this momentum, Matías launched “Exit. Gastronomia Urbana” in 2018, a more casual concept, located conveniently near the central Missori underground stop. His repertoire of establishments soon expanded à la Dani García to include Empanadas del Flaco, Roc, and Exit Pastificio Urbano.

A playful cuisine full of deception and surprise

Matías Perdomo, a chef who arrived in Europe in the early 2000s, witnessed the gastronomic revolution that transformed Spanish cuisine. He was intrigued by the novel techniques that Spanish chefs employed, from gels, spheres or foams to conceptual innovations like deconstruction. He incorporated and adapted some of these methods into his own cooking, developing a distinctive style that fused tradition and innovation.

Already at Al Pont de Fer Perdomo he indulges in the deconstruction of traditional osteria dishes, giving them a unique twist. Probably inspired by Massimo Bottura, he reinterpreted Italian classics such as carbonara, cacio e pepe, and spaghetti alla vongole. All these dishes are still part of his tasting menu today.

Permeating through Perdomo’s culinary philosophy is a profound sense of playfulness and an element of surprise. He shares this trait with his admired El Celler de Can Roca, especially with chef Jordi Roca, who is known for his whimsical desserts. Perdomo employs trompe-l’oeils – or ‘trampantojo’ in Spanish – to make his dishes look like something else entirely. For instance, he presents a fragola tonnata that resembles a strawberry but tastes like tuna, his potato and octopus tart features suction cups, and an apparently ‘empty bowl’ that contains a delicious strawberry coulis.

In addition to cooking, Perdomo has a passion for the arts that possibly stems from his teenage days working as a carpenter with his uncle. He likes to pay tribute to his favourites in his dishes, from the iconic film Pulp Fiction, Lego or the abstract paintings of Joan Miró.

The venue and the ambiance

Stepping through the doors of Contraste, located in the heart of Milan, it feels like one leaves the cosmopolitan urban life behind. Passing through a small hidden garden, one enters an intimate 30-cover establishment, with a clean sophisticated look, high ceilings and a focus on light and white tones. Art is very present in this house, from The Silence by Matteo Pugliese at the entrance, to Busci’s San Siro Stadium in the dining room. The kitchen, in fact, can only be glimpsed through a small peephole, which guests are invited to approach and peer through.

The tasting menu

We ordered the longer version of the only menu, Riflesso, for 180 euros. Perdomo claims that his kitchen philosophy is based on the concept of ‘reflection.’ According to this idea, diners at Contraste are not just reserving a table, but a personal culinary journey, customized to their tastes and personalities. The staff at Contraste is supposed to play a key role in creating this experience. They are supposed to interact with the diners, understanding not only their preferences and allergies, but also their curiosity and adventurousness.

However, we did not witness any of this philosophy in action when we visited the restaurant in 2021. We wonder how this philosophy would work in practice, considering the logistical challenges it would pose. We did notice that some tables received different dishes than ours. For example, while we had beef and bresaola, others had grilled sweetbreads as a main course.

In any case, we started with a Terpin – Sauvignon 2012 by the glass to accompany all the dishes prior to the meat.

Il riflesso, our initial foray into chef Matías Perdomo’s whimsical universe, was a playful trio of amuse-bouches housed in a locked box. Of course, we were kindly given a key to this box of surprises.

The first offering, a crème brûlée di fichi e foie gras (crème brûlée of figs and foie gras), paid homage to the caramel flavours of date, straddling the line between custard and béarnaise. Topped with a tiny square of date as a subtle reminder of the origins of those caramel tones.

The sarde in saor presented the familiar Venetian flavours in a new form – softly encased in a green gel.

The final offering in this troika was a piece of trompe-l’oeil, a fragola tonnata. What appeared to be strawberry was in reality a brandade of tuna, daintily enveloped in a purée of red peppers, a delightful visual and gustatory trick.

The parade of culinary innovation continued with four complex antipasti, served simultaneously. None of them is intended to be eaten warm, so there is no worry like in Il Ristorante of Niko Romito that some of the serving will get cold or soggy.

First, the Cipolla rossa di Tropea e formaggio di capra, offered an creative trompe-l’oeil of a red onion from Tropea with sweet caramelized Tropea onion under a thin candy shell. As shown in Italia Squisita’s video, the shell was filled the same onion jam and a light foam of goat cheese. The base was adorned with a generous dusting of black sesame cake crumbs, providing a visual and textural counterpoint to the sweet, creamy composition.

It continues with the Sashimi di filetto di bue, umeboshi, foie gras e salsa bernaise. The ox slice, surprisingly tender, presents a sweet undertone, which is elegantly complemented by the complexity of the foie gras. A salty and acidic touch of umeboshi pickling juice, works in tandem with the rich Béarnaise sauce, enhancing the overall harmony and providing an excellent seasoning for the beef sashimi.

The Mosaico di ricciola (amberjack mosaic) brought a playful element to the table with its cubical combination of white tuna, grapefruit, orange, hazelnut, foie, and a squid ink jelly. The presentation invited diners to create their own flavour combinations, revealing the harmonious blend of the ingredients in any given permutation.

Lastly, the Rosa di scampi in elisir di ceviche (Scampi rose in elixir of ceviche) was a visual and gustatory delight. Scampi were masterfully arranged in the form of a rose, and were bathed in a mildly tangy ceviche sauce, offering a playful variation on the traditional recipe. The scampi’s inherent sweetness was amplified when combined with the entire ensemble, demonstrating a masterful balance of flavour.

As the journey continues, another assortment of four petite dishes arrives to the table.

Starting off is the Torta di ventose di polpo e patate, which echoed the flavours of ‘pulpo a feira‘, sans paprika. It featured a thin tart filled with a parsley-scented potato mash and an octopus gel, the gelée taking on a textural similarity to the octopus whose suction cups were meticulously placed atop the tart.

Next up is the Carbonara. This playful interpretation of the classic Italian pasta dish is a signature of Matías (you can see him in action in this video). This ‘palla‘, a ball reminiscent of a thin black mantou, encapsulates a sauce with the familiar flavour profile of carbonara. One can distinctly perceive the durum or pasta water flavour. Was there also a piece of guanciale hidden within? We think so.

Then we are served the Tartare di seppia e chorizo, also titled to as Ricordo di tartare (memory of tartar). This is a celebration of the cuttlefish (seppia), presented in an unusual texture akin to the braised gelatinous parts of a pig like the nose or the trotters. The textures is bewildering, a springy yet soft gel that dissolves in the mouth. What lifts this dish up is the chorizo sauce, which effortlessly mimics the smoky, rich tones of the actual cured meat.

Finally, the Noodles di capesante, dashi e parmigiano (Scallop noodles with dashi and Parmigiano) make their entrance. Yet another stunning display textures, these unique noodles made from scallops feel simultaneously springy and soft. The dashi, a traditional Japanese stock, holds a discernible note of miso, and pairs effortlessly with the foam of Parmigiano. This duo is sprinkled with black sesame for some colour.

As the curtain lifts on the seafood focused section of the menu, the assortments of antipasti give way to servings of single dishes.

Gambas “al ajillo” is the first to arrive. Contrary to the expectation that the name might evoke, there is no garlic in this iteration of the classic Spanish dish. Instead, we are presented with very thinly sliced shrimps bathed in a high-quality olive oil, dusted with paprika, and coupled with a vibrant, tangy passion fruit and tomato sauce. This unorthodox alliance of flavours transforms the dish into something delightfully exotic yet comfortably familiar. The sweet, delicate texture of the shrimps is truly remarkable, melting into an almost paste-like consistency in the mouth, heightened by the bright, fresh garnish of green produce.

It is followed by Il nostro cacciucco con salsa all’anguria, another re-imagination a the traditional dish, a Tuscan seafood stew, brimming with an array of perfectly cooked seafood: shrimp, octopus, mussel, and clam or scallop, topped with a frothy seafood foam. What really stands out, however, is the sauce. A complex, sweet, and deeply flavourful offering, at first glance one might attribute the taste to tomato, but on a second taste, the surprising revelation of watermelon emerges. It brings a refreshing sweetness that beautifully counterbalances the inherent brininess of the seafood. The intriguing touch of green oil at the bottom further amplifies the dish’s overall depth.

With a touch of theatricality, Cozza, cacio e pepe is served in a bowl resembling a mussel shell. It offers a clever take on the classic Roman pasta dish – cacio e pepe. But here we find mussels swimming in a sauce of cacio, made from Pecorino Romano. On top, a foam of black pepper provides a light, airy counterpart to the richness of the cheese, while a granita of samphire adds a crisp, salty bite. The combination shocks by how well all the elements work together.

Lastly, we are served Spaghetti alle vongole in raviolo. The ravioli, though fried slightly too much (see the elaboration in Italia Squisita’s video), still manage to create a satisfying mouthfeel. Analogous to the carbonara, encased within the dough, a liquid vongole sauce delivers a faithful representation of the classic ingredients – garlic, parsley, and seafood. Unfortunately, the scent of frying oil masks the pure flavour of the vongole sauce. A surprise awaits in the form of an actual clam, nestled inside the ravioli.

Swiftly, we arrive at the meat dishes. We switch to a glass of the Foresti – Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore. This Rossese’s profile is akin to that of a Nebbiolo, with dominant notes of cedar and tertiary aromas that remind one of leather and tar. The tannins are toned down and the acidity slightly diminished in comparison, offering good balance.

We then encountered the Donut “alla bolognese”, an intriguing and delicious hybrid of two classic comfort foods – the doughnut and the lasagna. The choux pastry shell, filled with authentic bolognese sauce, created an element of surprise. Akin to the carbonara and vongole renditions sampled earlier, the sauce must have been introduced into the doughnut with a similar technique. Topped with béchamel, this reimagined dish was an absolute delight, combining familiarity with unexpected creativity.

Following the Donut “alla bolognese”, we are presented with an imaginative play on form – the Rognoncini di coniglio, salsa di anguilla e granita di aceto (rabbit kidneys, eel sauce and balsamic vinegar granita). Served whimsically in a top hat-shaped vessel, it makes an entrancing display. Pan-fried kidneys surround a central quenelle of aceto balsamico sorbet, while a bed of dashi and algae lends an oceanic umami. The rabbit kidneys, caramelised pancetta, and seaweed achieve an exquisite balance: the kidneys – tender, soft, and pristine – are complemented by the smokiness and crunch of the pancetta and the umami of the seaweed.

The Pluma di maiale iberico, ricci e burrata was a showcase of carefully balanced flavours and textures. The seared pluma ibérica, glazed with its own glace, was a real treat. The meat was tender and flavourful, reminiscent of filet mignon but with the intensified notes of Iberian pork. Underneath, dabs and dots of burrata sauce and sea urchin sauce presented a delicious surf and turf. However, the burrata sauce was notably subtle in its character, with its mild flavour proving hard to identify amidst the robust profile of the dish.

Concluding our savoury dishes was the Bue e la sua bresaola or Bue cotto e crudo, a duet of cooked and raw ox, celebrating the purity and depth of beef. A slice of ox steak acted as a canvas for an equally impressive slice of bresaola. This was a bresaola of the highest order, rivalling the legendary offerings from La Cigaleña, although this version lacked any element of smoke. The ox steak, possibly a rib-eye cut but tender as a sirloin, delivered a robust, intensely aged beef flavour.

We transitioned to the sweet spectrum with a unique palate cleanser – an intriguing medley of pesto foam and sweet ice cream, which tasted intriguingly vegetal, reminiscent of parsnip, yet the exact flavour eluded us. A curious coupling indeed, that refreshed the palate and prepared us for the desserts that lay ahead.

Our first dessert was a another exercise in deception – the Panna e fragole or Piato Vuoto (empty plate). In this trompe-l’oeil creation, the illusion of an empty plate is crafted by shaping Chantilly cream to seamlessly blend with the edges of the bowl. Below this deceptively simple exterior lied a succulent strawberry sauce that was sweet, tangy, and vibrant. The theatrics continue at the table where the dish is finished with a drop of aceto and a dusting of freeze-dried strawberries. As the strawberries slowly melt onto the cream, the blend of textures and temperature contrasts creates a vibrant interplay.

Last, but certainly not least, we delved into La Torta di Rose, a signature offering that marries indulgence and beauty. The brioche, extravagantly soaked in a syrup, caramelises to a tantalising golden hue. Paired with a scoop of top-notch vanilla ice cream (though not quite on par with La Halle aux Grains’ rendition), the combination of the fluffy, caramel-infused brioche with the rich, creamy ice cream is sublime. Could it rival Alain Passard’s famous bouquet de roses? Perhaps, but more importantly, this dessert stands confidently on its own merit. It is an indulgent finale, a sweet note to remember and, undoubtedly, one to return for.