London: December 2021

Dining at a restaurant whose death (including its cuisine and philosophy) was foretold was an interesting experience, even more on a celebratory day like Christmas. But then, the meal was so exceptionally good, that it was hard to believe that it would cease to exist. We assisted to a compendium of Daniel Humm’s best omnivorous cuisine, the cuisine that made him famous. His conversion to veganism, tensed the relationship with the owner Claridge’s Hotel to the point of closing the excellent restaurant which had barely been open for a year.

Humm and Claridge’s: a professional, but also emotional, relationship

The story of Davies and Brook is enmeshed with the culinary journey of the Swiss-born chef, Daniel Humm, and his enduring bond with the Claridge’s Hotel. More than a thirty years ago, in 1992, Humm worked within these walls, as a prep cook. Fast forward to eight years ago, when Humm, along with his then-business partner Will Guidara, almost seized the opportunity to helm the restaurant as Gordon Ramsay’s tenure in the hotel drew to a close. Humm reluctantly had to decline the offer, deeming himself not ready at the time.

He likely was focused on developing his flagship restaurant further and the project would have been a distraction. But after the creation of the Best of the Best category of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2019, the restaurants awarded gained a sort of safety. When offered again to build his own restaurant in Claridge’s over the ashes of Simon Rogan’s Fera, this time he accepted. This time, without the help of Guidara.

Many moons later, in January 2020, Davies and Brook made its debut, its opening delayed by six months. Soon though, it would be halted four times again due to the unwelcome interference of the global COVID-19 pandemic. Fortunately, Claridge’s, backed by its deep pockets, weathered the storm. The substantial investment injected into the project underlined the magnitude of the venture, and both Humm and Claridge’s had their reputations riding on it. Seen as a sibling to the renowned Eleven Madison Park, to ensure its success, several key personnel from EMP, including former general manager Billy Peelle and chef de cuisine Dmitri Magi, permanently relocated to London.

An unexpected break-up

However, the gastronomic journey of Davies and Brook took an unexpected turn when Humm, in the wake of a newfound veganism, expressed his intention to transform the Michelin-starred restaurant into a fully vegan venture. This did not sit well with Claridge’s management, leading to an amicable separation announced via social media. Despite being met with a degree of surprise, Humm’s decision, which he described as “the result of months of contemplation,” reflected his firm belief in the need to change with the world.

Regrettably, after earning a Michelin star in 2021 in the first edition of the guide after its opening, Davies and Brook closed its doors in December 2021. Despite the significant capital investment (see our description of the venue below) and the dedication of long-standing employees who moved from Eleven Madison Park to London, the restaurant’s life was regrettably brief.

The restaurant has been closed ever since. It is currently being refurbished and it will be transformed into a British-cuisine-driven restaurant by September 2023. Meanwhile, the former executive chef of Davies and Brook, Dmitri Magi, stayed in Claridge’s as Culinary Director.

Art Deco works in London too

Named for the crossroads where it stood in the heart of Mayfair, Davies and Brook was a showcase of sophistication and elegance. The dining room, designed by American Brad Cloepfil following his refurbishment of Eleven Madison Park in 2017, echoed its Art Deco style with a contemporary nod. Merging Claridge’s classicism with glowing walls, glass colonnades and dramatic lighting, every corner of the room was accentuated, fostering an ambiance that was open, airy and beautifully bathed in light. With room for 85 covers, plus a bar area for 20, the establishment embraced the bustling energy of the city, offering unobstructed views of Davies Street from its defrosted windows.

The meticulous thought given to the interior design reflected the same attention to detail found in chef Humm’s culinary creations. The bar, for instance, was a key feature as in Eleven Madison Park. Situated directly opposite the kitchen, it not only added vibrancy to the room but also subtly dissolved the stiffness that a five-star hotel setting might impose. The soft neutral palette, with splashes of red, combined luxury and warmth, from the velvety banquettes to the carpets nestled into the travertine floor. Even the tableware, co-designed by Cloepfil and produced by French ceramics company Jars, were tailored specifically to the restaurant’s menu. Adding to the distinctive allure of the space was the 40-art photography installation by American artist Roni Horn, a friend of Daniel Humm. As the sun dipped and the restaurant transitioned from lunch to evening service, the lighting adjusted in tone, fostering a warmer, more intimate atmosphere, making Davies and Brook a memorable, multisensory gastronomic experience that danced between design, cuisine, and art. Pity that all this would only last intermittently for a couple of years.

The service and the wine

We found the service very similar to that of the flagship in Madison Square. Detailed, attentive and only present when necessary. There were no theatrics by the table as in New York, which certainly helped. On Christmas Eve, it was the choir singing carols what was more distracting.

The wine list was exceptional – with 135 pages – drawing from the 1500 references available in the Claridge’s cellars. The beauty of this was the large number of well aged offerings, which were surprisingly well priced. Of course, this also means that the list covered mostly Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone and the rest of the Old World. We were able to find a gem hidden in it, a Poulsard from 2014, Jacques Puffeney’s last vintage for £60. A great way to enjoy the end of the year.

The offer by the glass was outstanding, with around 40 references including four sparkling, 10 whites, 10 reds and some rosés, Sherry, sweet and fortified wines. Bridging from classic (Rostaing’s Ampodium Côte-Rôtie) to more modern (Racines’ Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay), it had something for most palates, other than the natural-inclined.

A last taste of Eleven Madison Park’s omnivorous cuisine and the Christmas tasting menu

For the Christmas dinner, the set menu mostly featured signature dishes from Humm’s repertoire. Whereas Eleven Madison Park was designed to embody attributes from Miles Davis, in theory, Davies and Brooks had been inspired by values attributed to Radiohead¹. Yet, we did not observe any significant differences between the culinary offerings in London and those in New York City before becoming vegan. The vision and the concepts behind the dishes seemed to align with a similar philosophy.

Dmitri Magi, who has an impressive CV that includes working at Noma, Gramercy Tavern and seven years as head chef at Eleven Madison Park², is well-versed in Humm’s cuisine and has adopted it as his own. The execution was flawless. We could not find any fault in any of the courses and some dishes amazed us with the delicate way they balanced indulgent ingredients. It was one of the best meals we have ever experienced to date. The fact that we were having the last spoonfuls of Humm’s celebrated omnivorous cuisine probably made it more special.

We opted for an ‘à la carte’ set menu of a cold, a hot, a main dish and a dessert, each of which one could choose freely among three or four options. To try as many different dishes among two people, we chose different options.

In any case, the amuse-bouche kicked off the culinary journey for both of us with a compelling nod to East meets West, presenting a delicate duck dumpling. The dumpling, made from duck leg seasoned with Chinese five spice and thyme, was elegantly adorned with a disks of Hispi cabbage and pumpkin, which served more as a visual delight rather than a key player in the flavour profile. Served in a steaming container, not too dissimilar to traditional bamboo steamers, it was imbued with the aromas of rosemary and thyme nestled at the box’s base.

The accompanying broth, robust with intense duck flavour, was infused with thyme. A thoughtful application of the zero-waste philosophy, the team prepared it from roasted duck bones from our main course.

One of the stars of the meal was, without question, the Bread and butter offering. The individually served buns were a delicious cross between a brioche and a croissant, with an exterior that was crisp and laminated, while the interior was incredibly fluffy and delicate. The texture was sublime, but the flavour was even more impressive: rich butter enhanced by nutty notes from bran and wholemeal. A quenelle of goose butter that could rival any great unpasteurised butter, added more decadence to an experience that evoked the spirit of the old French Cuisine love for butter in a contemporary format. No wonder that this had been a staple in New York since 2011.

The first cold starter on the menu, Char with Smoked Onion, Apple, and Sorrel, showcases the Arctic char, which although it’s not that common to Western Europe, it’s a fish prized for its delicate flesh and mild flavour. Thinly sliced and marinated in an aromatic infused oil, the char is arranged in a symmetrical pattern on the plate, creating a visual contrast with the vibrant green sorrel sauce. The sauce adds a touch of acidity and freshness to the dish, as well as a smooth texture that binds all the elements together. On top of the char, a brunoise of apple, Buddha’s hand zest, mustard seeds, and puffed white rice provides a burst of flavour and crunch. The puffed white rice is an unexpected but delightful addition, introducing a nutty, savoury dimension and some contrast in texture. Though the char itself is marinated, the taste remains subtle, allowing the texture of the fish to shine. The result is a harmonious plate that celebrates the purity and subtlety of the char, without overpowering it with other ingredients.

Our second cold starter, Caviar, Imperial Osietra Caviar with Sweet Potato, Bonito, and English Muffin was as indulgent as harmonious while concealing a subtle trompe-l’œil. The tart rested on a thin, light, buttery sablée, which supported two layers of gels and caviar. Both gels mimic the texture of a pâté or foie gras that one would spread over bread, creating a sense of familiarity from an otherwise unconventional presentation as a tart. The bottom gel, infused with katsuobushi, delivers a familiar taste of dashi, amplifying the umami of the dish. This proves to be crucial, accentuating the briny and seaweed tones of the caviar and allowing its taste to linger on the palate. On the other hand, the upper gel is sweet potato-based, and while its characteristic flavour does not stand out prominently, the intrinsic sweetness of the ingredient is well-utilized to offset the potent salinity of the caviar.

Accompanying this caviar tart is an English muffin. Cut in half and toasted to a golden brown in butter, the muffin offers a warm and inviting base upon which to spread the tart. Its crust, dusted with semolina, hides a soft and airy interior that holds the tart well without losing its shape. The harmonious interplay of these elements makes this arguably the best rendition of an English muffin we have had.

We continued with a warm starter, a signature of Humm since his very beginnings at EMP. His Butter-Poached Native Lobster with Delica Pumpkin and Razor Clams truly showcased team’s prowess at extracting the pure essence of his ingredients. Almost embracing Platonic epistemology, the lobster seemed to be prepared to represent the ideal form of itself: intense yet subtle, brimming with a sublime charm. Its gently poached in beurre blanc at 62C sous vide, which offers a slightly firmer texture, with more of a bite than usual. The claw piece echoed this texture more firmly, full of concentrated lobster flavour. The butter, certainly infused with the browned carcasses, seemed to intensify that sensation.

Next to the lobster was an aerated lobster bisque, more demi-glace than soup, which presented a deeper, richer, and more intense counterpoint. It was unadulterated by excessive herbs or spices, thus allowing the essence of the lobster to shine through fully. Furthermore, the concentrated umami of the sauce made the lobster’s inherent sweetness more apparent.

As a fitting companion to the maritime flavours, a delicately woven nest of thin, tender strands of Delica pumpkin adorned the dish over a pumpkin purée. Brushed with the same lobster butter, the pumpkin imparts a sweet, almost ethereal undertone that harmonises beautifully with the crustacean. Tweezered on this nest were thin slices of razor clam, which not only uplifted the seafood aromas but also presented an appealing visual contrast.

The other warm starter, the Celeriac with Broken Rice Porridge and Black Truffle is a winter variation on a Humm’s classic. The porridge itself is like a canvass suitable to be served with any flavour variation. In fact, it resembles congee, a rice-based porridge popular in Asian cuisines. The celeriac was atop the porridge, just thinley sliced and probably steamed. Meanwhile, the truffles are presented in two ways: as shaved slivers on the top and as a jam that hides under the rice. The former gives a delicate floral aroma, while the latter offers a rich and concentrated mushroom taste. The dish is completed with a broth that has a strong soy sauce and vinegar base, creating a sharp contrast with the other elements. The acidity is so overpowering that it masks the celeriac’s flavour, making it taste like green apple. This dish is delicious, but perhaps too intense. Unlike the Artic char serving, which was well-balanced but conveying mild flavours, this one is more extreme.

The Roasted Poussin, Stuffed with Black Truffle, Foie Gras and Brioche, stands as a tribute to French cuisine at its most luxurious, and frankly these type of dishes remind you why French cuisine is regarded so highly. Inspired by Eleven Madison Park’s famous roast chicken, the dish spotlighted the poussin. The bird was stuffed under its skin with a paste made of butter, parmigiano, toasted brioche, foie gras and truffle. This concoction detonates an explosion of flavour, an intensified richness that verges on indulgence. In fact, the filling reminded us of Mugaritz‘s rendition of the chuggable soup of pil pil, angulas and truffles. The high fat content of the stuffing also ensures that the lean meat of the thighs stays lubricated throughout the cooking while protecting the skin from some of the steam released. As a result, the skin becomes exceptionally crisp and caramelised, while neatly draping over the breast. Speaking of the poussin’s breasts, these were cooked to perfection – juicy and tender – all the while retaining the sweet undertone that distinguishes these youthful chickens.

The opulence extends with a lavish chicken jus infused with black truffle, the luxurious velvety liquid accentuates the richness of the dish while delicate, soft cipollini onions provide a sweet counterpoint. The dish’s lonely and laughable source of acidity is presented by a single cipollini onion, meticulously cooked in red wine vinegar.

As if the indulgence wasn’t profound enough, a separate bowl joined the main plate: a stewed poussin leg, coated in a rich poussin glace and capped with a cloud-like foam of pomme purée. Embodying comfort and luxury, the flavours of the stewed leg blend with the rich glace to create really hit the spot. The potato foam, unabashedly enriched with cream, does nothing but to top it off.

The paring with our Puffeney’s Poulsard, with just enough of those tertiary savoury notes, was just perfect.

The second main dish was a deliberate choice. It was the Dry-Aged Duck, Honey and Lavender Glazed with Smoked and Pickled Persimmon, a signature dish of Daniel Humm since 2009. In his cookbook, Humm reveals the significance of duck in gastronomy. He says, “All the grand chefs and restaurants have a great duck recipe”, and he wanted to create his own version to prove himself as a chef. The duck was renowned for its impeccable presentation, with a flawless skin that is perfectly glazed, seasoned, and often stuffed with a generous bouquet of herbs for a dramatic effect. While the duck breast was always the main serving, the sides changed according to the season.

The duck underwent a meticulous preparation process. Dry aged for 21 days, the meat developed a distinct gamey profile. The duck was then roasted to perfection and glazed with honey, resulting in a skin that’s crispy yet slightly tacky, reminiscent of Peking duck. This crunchy exterior, seasoned with coarsely ground cumin, five spice, and lavender, contrasted with the duck’s tender interior. Accompanying the duck was a vibrant jus, made from the duck’s carcasses, enhanced with strong citrus undertones, predominantly from mandarin, which acted as a bridge, linking the meat with the side of persimmons.

As for the persimmons, the choice of the fuyu variety – hailed from Japan for its sweet, firm nature – was a perfect match for the duck. Thinly mandolined, these slices were brushed with a mandarin glaze. Hidden beneath lies a brunoise, a melange of lightly pickled persimmon, grapefruit, and mustard. Together, the duck and persimmon created a balanced range of flavours, from gamey to citrusy to sweet.

For us, encountering this dish was nearly emotional. Knowing about the upcoming closure of the restaurant and EMP’s switch towards a plant-based philosophy, it was rather a bittersweet farewell to a chapter of the gastronomy.

Moving to the dessert, Milk and Honey is a reinterpretation of Humm’s nostalgic childhood memory of sipping warm milk and honey in his native Switzerland, revisited from its original 2015 version. It consists of a soft-serve milk and honey ice cream, set upon a base of oat shortbread, crowned with bee pollen and encircled by a ring of bee pollen-infused white chocolate. The ice cream itself conceals a surprise: a hidden pocket of liquid honey that oozes like a coulant. The smoothness of the ice cream, the crunchiness of the shortbread, and the creamy richness of the white chocolate harmonize to create a soothing and satisfying dessert, while the bee pollen adds a touch of earthiness. If you know us well, you won’t be surprised that hearing ‘honey’, we went for a beerenauslese by the glass to pair.

As a final touch, the meal concluded with a bonbon served as a mignardise, displaying the teams craftsmanship in chocolate making. The bonbons had an appealing shine and shape, and a remarkably thin and crisp shell, indicating meticulous attention to detail and precise tempering of the chocolate. Inside, the subtly sweet, creamy flavour of macadamia provided a satisfying contrast to the chocolate’s depth.

Footnotes

1. Thoughtful, electric, generational, expressive, creative, spiritual, cool, authentic, pivotal, eloquent, present.
2. 2011 to 2019, including 2017, when they were named the world’s best restaurant.