New York: February 2022

We are not sure if Humm has achieved his goal of ‘redefining luxury as an experience that serves a higher purpose’, but certainly Eleven Madison Park is very different since he decided to abandon the dishes that once defined the restaurant. We still remember the first time we encountered Humm’s exquisite dry-aged, lavender-honey glazed duck breast a few years ago, and how we fell in love with his minimalist contemporary cuisine, dreaming of eating at EMP one day. It was a bitter pill to swallow, like biting into a Seville orange pith or, even worse, a raw bitter gourd, when Humm posted on his Instagram account that EMP will no longer serve meat or dairy-based products in May 2021. Humm claims that this move towards a plant-based approach was the only sustainable way to improve our food system. The ground-breaking announcement caused a lot of hustle online, and many eagerly awaited the reopening of EMP ever since then. We have a reserved attitude to such one-sided radical concepts, but we could not pass up the opportunity to eat there when we visited New York.

Eleven Madison Park before Daniel Humm

The birth of Eleven Madison Park is tied to the vision of restaurateur Danny Meyer. When the establishment opened its doors in November 1998, it was then in a part of New York that was more derelict than trendy – Madison Square Park. Meyer’s prescience led him to seize the opportunity to rent space within the iconic MetLife building, a monument to the architectural grandeur of the 1920s that was left unfinished due to the onslaught of the Great Depression. This truncated skyscraper, still maintaining its striking art deco design, housed office spaces that had lain vacant for years. Meyer’s subsequent contract in 1997 to reinvigorate this tired and neglected edifice would commence an ambitious and costly refurbishment project to house a top-quality brasserie.

What ensued was a labour of love, a refurbishment project that retained much of the art deco elegance. Upon its inauguration in November 1998, the brasserie, with 180 covers, was off to a promising start, earning a favourable review from Ruth Reichl of The New York Times in January 1999 with a two-star rating. Throughout the following years, the restaurant thrived, with the menu undergoing intriguing transitions. Early offerings ranged from the opulence of veal feet, seared foie gras, and frog legs, to the comforting familiarity of cookies and hot chocolate. By 2005, the menu had evolved to showcase dishes such as root vegetables with goat cheese, truffle parfait, and lobster served inside a pumpkin¹, still capturing a sense of casual refinement. Despite this success, a desire for further evolution and refinement brewed within Meyer. His ambitious yearning led him on a quest for a new chef, culminating in the successful recruitment of the highly acclaimed Daniel Humm in 2006.

A profile of Daniel Humm

Tracing the journey of chef Daniel Humm back to its roots is no small undertaking, given the numerous chapters of struggle and triumph that make up his career. To accurately capture Humm’s essence, our analysis draws heavily from the comprehensive biographical accounts presented in Eleven Madison Park: The Next Chapter, published between 2017 and 2019. The book reveals Humm’s artistic proclivities and affords insights into his personal life, painting an almost psychoanalytic image of the man behind the apron. This history is best unfolded chronologically, for its each and every twist and turn that helps us appreciate the artistry and relentless work ethic that epitomises Humm.

Born in 1976 in Switzerland, Humm’s tale is marked by a series of imposing paternal figures. First among them was his father, an architect by profession, who instilled in the young Humm a Calvinist work ethic, seemingly devoid of religious inclination but profoundly defined by dedication, perseverance, and meticulousness.

From the tender age of seven, Humm was led to engage in work with local farmers, familiarising himself with the earth and its bountiful yield. These summers living with the Odermatts family and working the land, built a deep connection with the produce, a sentiment that would shape his culinary philosophy later in life. The rigours of school were a struggle for the young Humm, a disappointment for his father. In response, he tried to steer his son away from the culinary path Humm had naturally inclined towards, but this attempt did not bear fruit.

The Swiss education system, at the crossroads of either pursuing higher education or an apprenticeship, saw Humm continuing his culinary journey owing to his lacklustre grades. The disapproval of his father, however, was a stinging thorn on his side. This would drive him all his life to prove himself, to demonstrate to his father that his choice of the culinary path was not an inferior one.

With the harsh reality of no financial support from his father looming over him at the age of 14, Humm plunged into the working world and took up a job in a restaurant at the Kurhotel Schinznach Bad, working under the guidance of Chef Victor Geiser. From learning to prepare classic dishes like boeuf bourguignon to understanding the inherent passion that culinary arts demanded, this was the foundation of his career.

Humm quickly climbed the ladder and began an apprenticeship at the luxurious Baur Au Lac hotel in Zurich in 1990. A brief interlude in 1992 saw him move to London working at the Claridge’s Hotel as a commis.

Upon returning to Switzerland, Humm found his way to the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, Arosa, working under chef Otto Limacher. It was a period of learning, where Humm honed his skills and delved into classical French cuisine. His drive then led him to the two Michelin star restaurant, Lowen in Thörigen, under chef Nik Gygax. Gygax, a champion of foraging and top-quality produce, espoused a spontaneous style of cuisine that left a strong impression on Humm. It also inspired him to capture these fleeting creations through his art, preserving them as sketches, a nod to his artistic inclinations.

His dream restaurant, the prestigious three-star Le Pont de Brent, came calling in 1996. Working under chef Gérard Rabaey, the other powerful male figure in his life, was a defining period in Humm’s life. The stern Rabaey instilled in Humm a rigorous discipline towards work and an uncompromising respect for ingredients and introduced him to a more contemporary aesthetic akin of that of Joël Robuchon. His tenure under Rabaey, though gruelling, was transformative and pushed him to truly understand the mechanics behind cooking. By 2002, however, the intensity of his work led to burnout and a longing for a more relaxed culinary environment.

His first restaurant

Migg Eberle, owner of a country farmhouse restaurant Gasthaus Zum Gupf, offered just that. Here, Humm started leading the kitchen modestly, cooking simple local food such as veal chops and spätzle. Slowly, he introduced some ingredients like lobster and foie gras, experimenting short tasting menus that captured the attention of the culinary world. The Gault et Millau² guide named him the ‘Discovery of the Year,’ and soon after, a Michelin star followed. Yet this newfound fame, bringing with it increased customer demand, resulted in intense pressure and a dip in quality, leaving Humm dispirited and overworked. Exhaustion would eventually cause him a car accident, of which he fortunately got out unharmed.

In parallel, the relationship with the mother of his daughter he had when he was eighteen foundered. Seeking solace, he just immersed himself wholly in his work. In the years that followed, the chef would neglect his personal life even more.

Moving to the USA

This low point, however, was also a turning point. His reputation reached Paul Zuest, a Swiss hotel manager based in California. Zuest, recognising Humm’s talent, invited him to helm the kitchen in his hotel Campton Place in San Francisco. Despite initial reservations, an enticing tour of California’s culinary scene, including visits to local markets, Tartine or The French Laundry, Napa Valley and Chez Panisse, finally won Humm over.

His arrival ignited a swift change in the restaurant’s fortunes. By August, Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle rated the establishment with 3.5 stars and an effusive review. Humm’s recognitions, including accolades from the New York Times and being named ‘Best New Chef of 2005’ by Food & Wine magazine, drew Meyer’s attention. Simultaneously, restaurateur Danny Meyer had been scouting for a fresh culinary talent to infuse into Eleven Madison Park.

After sampling Humm’s food in San Francisco, Meyer extended an invitation for Humm to join the EMP team in New York. Much like his initial reluctance to move to San Francisco, Humm was hesitant, but after a hearty courting period, Meyer persuaded Humm to transfer his talents to New York and become the Executive Chef of Eleven Madison Park.

In January 2006, Humm touched down in New York, stepping into an intimidatingly large kitchen and dining room, a scale he was unaccustomed to managing. Training the chefs to his rigorous standards was a frustrating feat, but at least his dedication coupled with Meyer’s unwavering support led to a partnership with Will Guidara, an internal hire from Meyer’s hospitality group.

The road to the success

Under the joint leadership of Humm and Guidara, EMP underwent a significant transformation to achieve excellence. They implemented changes in every aspect of the restaurant, such as reducing the number of seats to around 120, refining the food and wine offerings, revamping staff uniforms and crockery, and aiming for a three-star rating from the New York Times. Their efforts paid off in 2007, when the food critic Frank Bruni awarded them the coveted three-star accolade.

Another key figure who contributed to EMP’s success was Daniel Boulud, a renowned French chef who had a long-established presence in the United States. Boulud’s extensive network of contacts in New York, as well as his relationship with Humm that began in San Francisco, enabled the rapid advancement of EMP. When Humm moved to New York, Boulud facilitated the transformation of the restaurant by introducing him to top-tier producers, suppliers, and potential chef recruits.

Still, their ambitions didn’t end there. Humm and Guidara travelled around the world to take inspiration from the best restaurants, including L’Arpège, L’Ambroisie in Paris or Michel Bras in Aubrac. As they implemented all these changes in their own unpretentious style, the quality of the experience kept improving. This saw them receive four stars from the New York Times in 2009, a crowning moment for the team.

Success leads to a quest for the top

The following year brought further accolades, with Eleven Madison Park receiving its first Michelin star and being ranked 50th in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list by Restaurant Magazine. From there, they rapidly ascended the gastronomic ranks, releasing a cookbook, receiving the “Outstanding Restaurant” award from the James Beard Foundation in 2011, and achieving a three Michelin star rating in 2012, an unusual jump from a single star.

The ambitious couple had more projects envisioned and wanted to set up a company of their own – Make it Nice. In 2011 they agreed to buy out Danny Meyer’s share of the restaurant and expand. In the following year they had already embarked on their first external venture, managing the food and beverage programme at the NoMad Hotels.

Their global renown grew swiftly, with their yearly rise within the World’s 50 Best Restaurants ranking attesting to their international allure. By 2015, their ascendancy was undeniable. EMP reached the fourth position on La Liste – a highly respected French response to the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, where they ranked third. The James Beard Foundation, once more, paid tribute to their “Outstanding Service”, this time awarding Will Guidara in 2016.

EMP’s rise to international prominence was furthered by Humm’s friendship with Yannick Alléno, chef from Le Meurice at the time, now in Pavillon Ledoyen. Their camaraderie led Alléno to frequently commend Humm’s work at EMP to critics and other chefs across the Atlantic, extolling it as a must-visit spot in New York. These new connections, along with myriad others, propelled EMP further up the gastronomical ladder. By 2017, the restaurant had not just climbed the list but reigned supreme, securing the title of “Best Restaurant in the World”.

Will Guidara leaves

Later that year, at the peak of customer demand, the restaurant was confident enough to close and undergo refurbishments, its first since the original overhaul in 1997.

However, this period of unparalleled success and constant progression wasn’t without its challenges. The partnership between Guidara and Humm began to falter, culminating in Guidara’s departure in 2019. Humm, eager to maintain control, purchased Guidara’s shares of the company, marking a significant shift in the restaurant’s dynamic. The reasons for this dissolution remain largely undisclosed, hinting at undisclosed tensions and disagreements over the restaurant’s direction.

This change in leadership also impacted their relationship with NoMad Hotels. The latter, dubious about Humm’s ability to single-handedly maintain smooth operations, chose to sever ties, delivering a significant blow to their enterprise in 2020. This period also marked the delayed opening of Davies and Brooks in January 2020, which we have covered in this other article.

During the pandemic, Daniel grappling with personal tribulations and navigating through the solitude made decisions that might have appeared startling at first glance. One might speculate that his meditation stint in India may have shaped his new approach. We observe Humm’s propensity for risk, a tendency encapsulated by the German term ‘leidenschaft’, implying a kind of passionate suffering. EMP was perilously close to bankruptcy as a result of the pandemic, yet Humm responded with audacious adjustments. Humm’s decision to switch to an entirely plant-based menu in May 2021, perhaps viewed by some as a reckless move, was indeed daring. Simultaneously, and less risky, EMP embarked on an agricultural venture by leasing a significant part of Magic Farms in Hoosick, New York. Empowering the farm’s original owners to cultivate a bounty of produce according to Humm’s vision, EMP was now feeding its guests from its own farm à la Dan Barber.

However, the decision to adopt a plant-based menu was not welcomed by all. Claridge’s Hotel in London, home to Davies & Brooks, disagreed with Humm’s intention to transform the menu into a meat-free one. The seismic shift to veganism at EMP also initially faced criticism and struggled with staffing issues post-pandemic. Humm, it seems, thrives under such pressure, with his decisions post-Guidara’s departure often deemed unconventional and daring.

Despite initial backlash and staffing difficulties, Humm remained undeterred, displaying a peculiarly defiant resilience. Perhaps the most innovative move in recent years was the establishment of Eleven Madison Home, a US-wide delivery service of the vegan products prepared at EMP. As a meal kit, it serves not only as a conduit to extend the EMP dining experience but also as a vehicle to promote vegan produce and products.

Finding maturity, finding himself in the kitchen

Sometimes you have to play a long time to be able to play like yourself.

Miles Davis

Daniel Humm’s cuisine – though fundamentally French at its core, courtesy of his training under Gérard Rabaey in Switzerland – has evolved impressively over the years. This culinary metamorphosis is not merely anecdotal but is clearly demonstrated through a pictorial catalogue tracing Humm’s food journey.

In the formative stages of Humm’s career, his cuisine bore the hallmark of French traditions, informed primarily by his culinary training in Switzerland under the aegis of Gérard Rabaey. His early work, evident in his tenure at Le Pont de Brent, mirrored Rabaey’s meticulous artistry and the robust influence of Joël Robuchon. An early example, in 2003 at Campton Place in San Francisco, a dish featuring a courgette weave veiled over a frog leg and accompanied by a frothy porcini foam, illustrated Robuchon’s impact on Humm’s aesthetic – the devotion to visual appeal, and the intense labour invested in the minutiae of the dish.

Between 2005 and 2011, Humm’s cuisine underwent a transformation, most likely under the influence of Michel Bras. His dishes from this period reflect the artistic plating, garnishes, and sauces that capture the organic and natural essence of Bras’ style. The 2011 book from Eleven Madison Park serves as an excellent visual record of this gastronomic shift.

Along with these broader stylistic changes, Humm’s menus also began to feature signature dishes. As early as 2006, his famed poached lobster made its debut, followed by the refined suckling pig dish – an import from his Swiss days. A chocolate tart bearing a strong resemblance to L’Ambroisie’s classic creations featured in 2007, highlighting Humm’s ongoing dialogue with the French grandes maisons. His menu continued to evolve, with iconic dishes like the duck and the roast chicken making their appearance in 2009, the same year that he experimented with spherifications, an elBulli technique from 2003.

External influences kept playing a role for some time. A year later, we witnessed the emergence of a dish reminiscent of L’Arpège’s egg – here, Sturgeon: sabayon with chive. Even the elBulli-inspired lollipops found a place in Humm’s evolving gastronomic repertoire. By 2011, Humm had introduced their famous bread rolls.

A fresh wave of inspiration from Noma introduced edible earths to the menu in 2012, but Humm’s cuisine began to take a more personalised, and distinctive turn from 2012 to 2014. It is within this timeframe that Humm’s cuisine began to morph, taking on an increasingly personal and minimalistic character, driven by a profound affection for art. This was not a sudden alteration but a progressive transformation. One can liken Humm’s metamorphosis to Picasso’s famed bull lithographs series, where the artist abstracted the animal from realistic representation, to geometrical shapes, finishing with its minimal expression through free-form lines. The parallels to Humm’s culinary journey are strikingly evident.

Moreover, Humm’s minimalist approach to his cuisine can be attributed to numerous artistic influences. The breadth of his inspirations range from the Impressionist canvases of Monet’s Water Lilies, observed in the Jardin de Tuileries during his youth, to the emotional power of Rothko’s No. 16 at MoMa. The austere, white works of Robert Ryman also resonate in Humm’s aesthetic, alongside Lucio Fontana‘s work challenging the concept of the canvas, the architectural finesse of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and the sculptures of Agnes Martin and Roni Horn.

The transition to minimalism wasn’t an unprecedented step in gastronomy, with institutions like Mugaritz paving the way between 2007 and 2008. However, Humm’s interpretation brought a unique and refreshing perspective. A quintessential example of Humm’s early minimalist style is seen in the eel dish, roasted with foie gras and Swiss chard, introduced in 2012. As the years progressed, so did his style, with dishes such as the 2013 tomato dish and the kohlrabi, pear salad with cheddar and hazelnut further exemplifying his minimalistic approach. However, it was the celery root with truffle presented in a pork bladder, unveiled in 2015, that Humm credits as the turning point in his culinary approach. This dish, he believes, encapsulates his minimalist style and epitomises his aesthetic values.

By 2015, Humm had started verbalising this philosophy, distilling his approach into four primary tenets: deliciousness, beauty, creativity, and intention. Each principle carries a significant weight. Beauty, according to Humm, is a fusion of the natural, the organic, the effortless and the minimal – or as he prefers to call it, ‘elemental’. Creativity is achieved through innovative flavour combinations, novel techniques, or elements of surprise. Intentionality ensures each dish is imbued with a narrative or a story, which in turn gives it a soul.

This philosophy found maturity by 2016, and the dishes thereafter followed this defined framework. The erstwhile Brassian style vanished. Instead, Humm’s menu began to brim with vegetable-driven dishes, evident from the 2018 menu offerings centred on leeks, salsify, and eggplant, among others.

The evolution of Humm’s cuisine can be strikingly observed by comparing the aesthetic changes between his books published in 2011, 2017, and 2019. This metamorphosis of Humm’s cuisine reflects not just an evolving gastronomic style but also a maturity that mirrors the words of painter Willem de Kooning: ‘You have to change to stay the same.’ In his culinary journey, Humm has indeed changed, carving a unique identity that is inimitably his own. His cuisine has become a rich narrative of his personal evolution, a harmonious blend of philosophy, style, and a persistent pursuit of innovation.

Switching to plant-based ingredients – or put simply, veganism

The reasons behind Humm’s 2021 transformation to a plant-based menu (really just ‘veganism’, but Humm does not like to brand it that way) seem mysterious – emerging seemingly out of nowhere. Perhaps the pandemic-induced bankruptcy scare that Humm faced, along with the departure of his co-owner Will Guidara, prompted him to take a bold risk and reinvent his business.

Humm claims that his plant-based shift is driven by an ecological concern, rather than an ethical one. He does not identify as a vegan, but as a ‘pro-planet’ individual who wants to reduce his environmental footprint. This differs from the traditional vegan perspective that focuses on animal rights and welfare. However, one might wonder how much impact Humm’s move can have in the grand scheme of things. After all, fine dining caters to a small and affluent segment of society that indulges in luxury consumption. To make a real difference, a more systemic change is needed that affects the way the majority of people eat on a daily basis. While it is possible that fine dining trends can trickle down to more casual dining options over time, it is doubtful that Humm’s plant-based menu can trigger such a widespread change.

Humm’s true motivations remain obscure, and some might suspect that he is using his plant-based menu as a marketing ploy to become the first three-Michelin-star vegan restaurant. However, this might be too cynical a view. It’s possible Humm genuinely wants to make a positive contribution to the world, even if its impact is limited. He may not even be aware of how small this impact is. It could be similar to recycling – an act that many people do to feel good about themselves, even if though most of it ends up being incinerated anyway.

A more effective way to address the environmental crisis would be to engage in political activism and lobby the government to regulate the agricultural industry. EMP’s prestige gives them an opportunity to do this, but this approach is less glamorous and less media-friendly than launching a vegan fine dining concept, especially if it manages to keep its Michelin stars.

Only time will tell if Humm’s plant-based shift will have any positive effect in the world. For now, we can only assume that it will make Humm happier with himself. For a man who has sacrificed so much for his work, this might be what matters most.

Will Guidara’s imprint on EMP’s service

Danny Meyer found that in Daniel Humm, a rising star in the culinary world. But Humm needed a partner who could run the dining room with the same passion and excellence. Will Guidara, a seasoned veteran within Meyer’s hospitality business, became a natural choice.

Our first impression of Guidara while reading his essays in EMP’s 2011 cookbook left us underwhelmed. The text felt lame, seemingly filled with jargon better suited to a hastily-written MBA thesis. It discouraged us from reading any other of his texts³. But when we heard him speaking in public, we were impressed by how good a communicator he is. He is an exceptional storyteller, capable of delivering a message with power and resonance.

Guidara’s captivating charm was crucial for crafting a distinctive ambiance and mood at EMP. He knew how to set the tone of a room and making it more modern and relaxed, breaking away from the often rigid formalities of traditional fine dining that prevailed in Le Bernardin or L’Ambroisie and Guy Savoy in Paris. That warmth in the service still lingers today.

Seeking to foster conviviality, they realised that shared experiences are more memorable than diners individually enjoying their servings, looking at their own plate. Thus, he also pushed to introduce an element of theatre to the experience, similar to that of The Fat Duck or Alinea. Less technical than Blumenthal or Achatz, a cloud of smoke when unveiling a dish could suffice. This playful approach led him to hire a magician to help design dishes that incorporated an element of surprise, and to foster a culture of what Guidara called ‘dream weaving’, occasionally going the extra mile to fulfil a customer’s wish.

Guidara has a remarkable knack for entrepreneurship and a passion for empowering his team with goals, vision and responsibilities. From the early days they adopted Miles Davis as their brand icon, embodying certain attributes perceived as Davis’ virtues: being cool, endless reinvention, innovative, fresh, collaborative, spontaneous, vibrant, adventurous, and light. From then, each of their restaurants would adopt a musician as a source of inspiration: The Rolling Stones for NoMad Hotels and Radiohead for Davies and Brooks.

Guidara pioneered this entrepreneurial way of selling his restaurant to the public. While we always take these marketing/business speeches with a pinch of salt, we believe that they resonated with the affluent and enterprising clientele of EMP and the critics.

The wine programme

While France, Spain and Italy are the undisputed leaders of high quality wine production, cities located in areas that traditionally did not produce much wine like New York City or London are the most exhibiting hubs where to taste wines from all around the world.

Having seen that EMP was already serving the relatively unknown Arnot-Roberts Hudson Valley Syrah by 2010, we were excited to find some interesting offerings in their wine pairing. However, we were somewhat disappointed by the conservative choice of wines, which mostly consisted of well-known classics. The quality was undeniable (the Domaine de Montille – Saint-Christophe Mersault 2018 was superb), but we did not encounter any surprises or discoveries. If we had another chance, we would explore the wine list instead.

The art-deco splendour of the main hall

Immediately from the entrance, the guests can admire beautiful art-deco interior of the main hall renovated in 2017 by Brad Cloepfil from Allied Works. The place seems smaller than one could deduce from the photos, but it leaves a remarkable impression nevertheless. The space is dominated by a large abstract painting by Rita Ackermann, a chalkboard painting that pays homage to the previous work by Steven Haddock that hung in the same spot. She recreated and erased the piece several times, creating a ghostly image of the original that evokes the restaurant’s past.

We were greeted warmly and asked to wait a few minutes for our table near the kitchen entrance, where we could admire the details that make this place unique. The crockery caught our eye, as well as the wine serving utensils, including Riedel decanters that were displayed on a Bauhaus style trolley. Eventually, to shorten the wait, we were seated in the main dining area instead of the bar. We certainly didn’t mind that. To enter the main dining room, one must cross the EMP’s Step, a solid block of metal made from metal melted from the old 1997 kitchen. The piece belongs to artist Daniel Turner, husband to Rita Ackermann. Once there, one can seat on the plush velvet banquettes or chairs and prepare to enjoy the meal.

The vegan tasting menu (abbreviated version at the bar)

To start off the evening, we picked a couple of cocktails from their wild-sounding drinks menu. The bartenders at EMP created an eclectic beverage menu ranging from fruit, vegetable to spices, fermented condiments, along with unconventional alcohol combinations. The only thing missing was some animal-derived ingredients (perhaps some synthetic pig’s blood?) to make it a replica of Lyaness’ bar in London with a touch of NYC eccentricity. However, we did learn a valuable lesson from EMP: we would never order cocktails again, unless we find ourselves on a imaginary exotic holidays, and our choice is a piña colada served in a chilled pineapple shell.

The restaurant offers two tasting menus, a long one served in the main dining area, and an abbreviated version at the bar. We opted for the latter with the wine pairing.

After a long waiting between getting the drink menus, getting the orders taken, and delivering the cocktails, our first course of the evening finally arrived. TOFU With Black Truffle and Sunchoke was an interpretation of Hiyayako served in a chawanmushi bowl with a made-in-house silken tofu instead of a custard. The texture of the tofu was very soft, almost reminiscent of crème caramel. A thin layer of a dashi-like gelée separated the tofu from a julienne of black truffle, shiitake and ginger. Overall, the perfect bite was very mushroom-forward, yet balanced with a bright acidity that left an aftertaste of black Chinese vinegar. The dish was supposed to have Jerusalem artichoke, but unfortunately we couldn’t taste it on that day. It was a light and refreshing dish, yet packed with umami, that awakened our taste buds for the rest. The pairing here was a Champagne, Waris-Larmandier – Particules Crayeuses, Blanc de Blancs.

We arrived at our second dish one hour into the night. The ‘bread and butter’ experience is definitely worth the wait though. Making a plant-based, laminated, enriched bread is a real challenge. Yet, here the pastry team came up with a product that can compete with traditional techniques in texture and flavour. It wa deliciously fluffy, yet crisp and flaky with a light taste of cold-extraction vegetable oil replacing the butter. We were kindly told by the service that the fats employed were coconut and sunflower based, using aquafaba as an emulsifier. With a generous spread of ‘onion butter’, the flavour of the bread was suddenly enhanced. Almost as if the flavour of an onion soup had been melded into the butter. A black spot of miso glace brought the butter to another level with rich and seemingly beefy notes. This was a real showcase of the pastry craftsmanship at EMP. Probably the best ‘bread and butter’ experience we have ever had. It can easily compete with the non-vegan equivalents.

The next course, TURNIP With White Sweet Potato, Finger Lime and Wasabi, consisted of a crust-less white sweet potato and turnip tart. These roots had been pickled, roasted and then compressed to achieve pure flavours sans coloration. Under the mosaic of tubers lied a wasabi and tahini cream whose flavour dominated in each bite. For a delicate textural contrast, spheres of finger lime were scattered over the cream, although their flavour did not shine through with ease. Contrary to the previous more opulent serving, this tuber tart standed out by its incredible lightness and subtlety.

Alongside the tart we were served a Rudi Pichler – Wösendorfer Hochrain Smaragd Riesling 2020. Very concentrated, with intense notes of greengages and a touch of salt and wet slate, it paired well against the wasabi.

Wrapped in vine leaves, a couscous of cauliflower and topped with steamed tonburi was theatrically unfolded in front of us – TONBURI With Cauliflower, Za’atar and Pita. The couscous had been layered in two different preparations: the lower layer consisted of a charred and confit cauliflower whereas the top one was cooked for shorter time preserving its fresher and vegetal flavour. The soft, yet distinguishable pieces of cauliflower accentuated the caviar-like texture of the tonburi. In a setting like this, the mild notes of broccoli typical of tonburi blend well into the dish allowing oneself to imagine that this could really be caviar.

As sides to this course, we were served a cauliflower and almond spread with sumac, as well as a fried pita bun with za’atar. We can understand that it was supposed to be analogous accompaniment to crackers and crème fraîche. However, the pita was disappointing compared to the bread in the previous course. The perfectly puffed sphere of pita was unfortunately drenched in frying oil. The oily flavour overpowered the taste of the bread making it unpleasant. Overall, the tonburi was the highlight of this course, and everything else was there just to enhance its pure, and delicate flavour. Fortunately, as an interpretation of a classic caviar and cracker serving, this did not feel like gimmicky use of the Shojin-ryori staple. Still, the dish does require some further development.

After another substantial wait, the new signature dish of EMP arrived – KING OYSTER MUSHROOMS – Fried with Lemongrass and Ginger, a brochette of grilled oyster mushroom encased in a starchy batter and deep fried. This was topped with grilled oyster mushrooms and pickled enoki, although their flavour could not be easily noticed. These were supposed to be a garnish to upscale the presentation, however, this purpose was defeated by a probably long wait on the pass, rendering them wilted and slightly heartbreaking. The sauce, however, saved the dish. A rich mushroom jus made light with lemongrass oil enlivened the brochette countering its deep-fried flavour. The dominant flavours of the dish were the deeply caramelised mushrooms with a touch of smoke, while the lemongrass added the depth of flavour and some freshness. It was a shame that the execution of the dish did not live up to its potential, and we wondered if the same flavours could be expressed in a different and simpler way. The wine here was a Domaine Giraud – Les Gallimardes Blanc 2012 from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The final course, CELERY ROOT With Chestnut Masa, comes as a plant-based interpretation of one of Humm’s classics, his roast chicken. Here the perfectly eyed-shaped chicken breast is replaced with braised celeriac tamal. The concept of tamal was also transformed. Instead of a traditional serving, the filling of the tamal was encased in a dome of braised celeriac laid on top of a disc of steamed masa.

For added EMP panache, the tamales were served in a tagine-shaped steamer. Water is added from the top falling into hot rocks, creating a chimney of steam. Then the tamales were unwrapped from their corn husks, and the server grated a fermented and aged chestnut over a painfully long period of time for the negligible taste it delivered. Analogously to the original dish, the acidity was provided through a celery salsa verde and the rich creamy mash, through a celeriac purée. The dish was brought together by a spiced celeriac jus whose richness could have been mistaken by a poultry jus. This is a good example of how this vegan cuisine can challenge the traditional meat-based preparations. To make matters even better, the pairing here was delicious, a Domaine de Montille – Mersault Saint-Christophe 2018, the best wine of the meal.

Finally, we arrived to the end, and managed not to fall sleep as the experience lasted over two and a half hours delivering barely six dishes… The dessert polarised our opinions. Eleven Madison Park is known for its minimalistic presentation, and that remains its strong point. However, the content of CITRUS With Cocounut and Meringue was too minimalistic for a three Michelin star restaurant. As simple as the flavours of citrus and coconut were encased in a pale yellow monotonal cylinder. This cylinder was made out of a coconut and citrus semifreddo with a sharp sorbet of citrus in a form of a disc laying on the top. This cylinder was hiding three spheres of sorbets made out of mandarin, bergamot and pink lemon. It does not seem too difficult to freeze a citrus juice, and put it on the plate. We would be surprised if the preparation were actually more intricate than it seemed. If so, it is rather a waste of time, because it does not deliver anything apart from disappointment. We know Humm is not a pastry chef. Still, in our opinion, pastry is a very overlooked part of a restaurant, and nearly none of the fine dining places, we have been to, has managed to deliver a remarkable experience. One would think it is very unwise of the chefs to neglect the desserts as it is the last thing the guests are served at the restaurant, and that experience should be at least as good as the rest of the meal. Perhaps then we would have been left with a better impression about EMP. With all this citric acid, the wine necessitated a similar level of acidity. The glass of Peller Estates – Riesling Icewine 2017 from Ontario did the job.

To finish off the evening, the waiter brought a dark chocolate pretzel with sesame alongside a glass of home-made white vermouth flavoured with citrus. That was a very nice idea for mignardises. Besides, as a little good-bye gift, we were given two pots of made-in-house granola that was absolutely delicious.

Conclusions

Eleven Madison Park’s plant-based cuisine offers a glimpse of the potential of fine dining without animal products. The dishes are creative, but they fall short of the high standards that Humm has set for himself. The execution is irregular and the concepts are often shallow, as is Humm’s attempt to portray himself as a Buddhist monk surrounded by spices or with soil-covered hands. It is sad to think that we will miss out on Humm’s original creations, unless he reconsiders his philosophy and adopts a more balanced approach. Alain Passard also abandoned meat for a while, only to return to it after a few years. Humm, however, seems adamant that meat used to constrain his dishes, while vegetables give him more freedom to follow the seasons.

This claim does not surpise us, nor do we find much value in it. Surely Bras (with his vegetarian menus starting in 1978), or Passard after 2001, appreciated the freedom of highlighting the seasons without the imposed structure of serving meat in the menu. And yet, true freedom stems from more options to choose from. Eliminating meat from the menu is eliminating an option, ultimately reducing the creative freedom. If the environment is the reason for that sacrifice in freedom, if we want to change the world, let’s use politics instead.

Footnotes

1. See an incredible photo here.
2. It’s impressive how this guide has discovered so many great chefs in recent history. From Humm, to Michel Bras.
3. No, I am sorry. We will not read Unreasonable Hospitality.