Naples: August 2023

After publishing our guide to pizza in New York, we felt compelled to embark on a quest for the authentic pizza napoletana during our trip to Campania. Pizza is not just a food in Naples; it’s deeply ingrained in the culture, with complexities that might surprise many. There are even specific standards that dictate what qualifies as authentic pizza napoletana... What makes a pizza napoletana authentic? How did it evolve over time? We will answer these questions and more, as well as recommend some of the best pizzerias in the region.

Brief history of the pizza napoletana

Pizza napoletana, a symbol of popular Italian gastronomy, has a long and rich history that spans several centuries. However, the first documented recipe of pizza napoletana dates back to the 16th century in the writings of Bartolomeo Scappi. His version was quite different from the modern dish, as it consisted of a sweet filling of fruits, nuts, cheeses, eggs, sugar, and spices, enclosed by two layers of pastry. This sweet and pastry-based pizza prevailed in culinary literature for the subsequent centuries.

It was not until the 19th century that the streets of Naples witnessed a transformation. The contemporary pizza napoletana, characterized by its simple flatbread topped with ingredients such as oil, cheese, and tomatoes, among other ingredients, emerged and gained popularity. This street food might have been overlooked by cookbooks. However, it attracted the attention of many travellers and writers, who contributed to its global rise in the 20th century as an emblem of Italy.

A popular legend from Naples suggests Raffaele Esposito, a 19th-century pizzaiolo (pizza-maker in Italian), created the pizza Margherita in 1889 at Pizzeria Brandi. Allegedly, he did this to honor Queen Margherita of Savoy, picking mozzarella, tomato, and basil to mirror the colors of the Italian flag. Yet, some historians find this story debatable. Earlier records from the 1830s point to a similar pizza, devoid of any association with the queen or Italy’s flag.

The main types of pizza in Naples

According to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN), the most respected authority among pizzaioli regarding pizza napoletana, there are only two types of pizza that qualify as ‘Vera Pizza Napoletana’: margherita and marinara.

The AVPN enforces rigorous standards for the authentic production of these pizzas, specifying not only the exact ingredients—flour, water, salt, and yeast—but also the required techniques for mixing, rising, and shaping the dough. The topping and garnishing also follow precise product recommendations and dosages for each pizza type, ensuring a balanced flavour profile. The cooking process is equally meticulous; the pizza must be baked in a wood fire oven at a staggering 485°C for 60-90 seconds, resulting in a crust that is 1 to 2cm high and a centre of 0.4cm±10%.

The pizza marinara features tomato, oil, oregano, and garlic, while the margherita is topped with tomato, oil, mozzarella or fior di latte, grated cheese, and basil. Both pizzas differ in tomato quantity: the margherita uses 60-80 grams of canned peeled tomatoes, and the marinara uses 70-100 grams.

While numerous non-canonical toppings are prevalent in Naples and Campania, there are other pizzas that also enjoy immense popularity:

• Pizza montanara: a disc-shaped dough that’s deep-fried and topped with tomato sauce, cheese, and basil. This pizza originated in Naples during World War II, when wood-fired ovens were scarce.
• Pizza fritta: a folded, stuffed, fried pizza dough filled with an assortment of ingredients like tomato, cheese, ham, ricotta, and cicoli. It is deep-fried in oil and then served hot or cold. This pizza is also a traditional dish from Naples, often sold by street vendors.

What makes a great pizza napoletana?

• Bread:
  • The crust, regardless of its size, should have an open crumb structure indicating proper fermentation and proofing techniques used to make the dough The traditional crust is 1-2 cm thick, while the canotto style is more inflated.
  • The centre of the dough should be thin. Though it may be soft, if you were to lift the whole uncut pizza by its crust, it shouldn’t collapse under the weight of the toppings.
• Char or ‘leoparding’: The crust and the bottom of the pizza should have small, evenly distributed spots of char that add flavor and visual appeal.
• Toppings:
  • Given the simplicity of the recipe, the quality of the ingredients is paramount.
  • Toppings should be added sparingly and distributed evenly to avoid overwhelming the crust or creating a soggy centre.
• Serving Temperature: To fully enjoy a pizza napoletana, it should be served piping hot. As the pizza cools to room temperature, its texture becomes chewier, diminishing the overall experience. That’s why we always recommend eating it at the pizzeria and not opting for take away. Save the take away for American pizza, whose lower hydration doughs stay crisp for longer.

On the digeribilità of the pizza

For many, pizza is considered a heavy dish that can lead to indigestion. Recently, a notion has gained traction suggesting that Neapolitan pizza, due to its long fermentation process, is lighter and easier to digest than other types of pizza. However, while extended fermentation can indeed enhance the dough’s flavour and texture, its impact on digestibility is minimal. The main factor that determines how easy or hard it is to digest pizza is the amount of food consumed in one sitting. A standard margherita, as defined by the AVPN, contains at least 800 calories. This is already close to what some people can comfortably digest in one meal. Therefore, the simplest way to aid digestion is to eat less.

Another observation from our visits to several Campania pizzerias is the brief cooking time, typically ranging from 60 to 90 seconds. This occasionally results in undercooked dough, especially during peak times, making it much harder to digest. 

The waiting game

Eating at any famous pizzeria in Campania often entails queuing or waiting for a considerable amount of time, regardless of whether one has made a reservation. At some venues, reservations aren’t an option, making queuing inevitable. To cope with the stress of Naples’ vibrant chaos, consider observing the queuing system for a few minutes before joining the line. For example, at Da Michele, the takeout queue can be overwhelming, but dining in is often more straightforward—and more pleasurable.

One of the benefits of waiting is people-watching while in the line. Pizza transcends all social classes and appeals to everyone. Some of the most acclaimed pizzerias attract a fascinating contrast between casual regulars and those who treat the experience as a fine dining occasion and dress accordingly. Observing this mix through an anthropological lens is particularly interesting.

The best pizzerias

Classical Neapolitan pizza

Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo

Di Matteo is a historic pizzeria in the centro storico of Naples. Founded in 1936, it is run by the original family. Salvatore Di Matteo, the pizzaiolo, won the World Pizza Championship in 2011 and is particularly renowned for his pizza fritta.

On first glance, the pizza fritta from Di Matteo’s is an impressive sight, a massive balloon of fried dough that promises a burst of flavours within. Inside, one finds a filling of creamy ricotta and thick slices of prosciutto, balanced by the tang of tomato. The outer dough is whisper-thin and remains crisp until one punctures the airy expanse, releasing a rush of steam. The crust, in contrast, presents a drier, chewier consistency that reminded us of the taste and aroma of a doughnut, but with a more intense hint of oil.

The pizza marinara at Di Matteo’s is another classic dish, made with respect for tradition and quality ingredients. The dough is reminiscent of I Masanielli‘s, offering a subtle sweetness, though Di Matteo’s iteration lacks the thin crisp exterior layer. Here, the crust is softer, more inclined towards a chewy texture, with a tight crumb. The generous slathering of fresh tomato sauce added a tangy freshness that we really enjoyed.

Antica Pizzeria da Michele

Founded by Michele Condurro in 1906, Da Michele is a legendary pizzeria in Naples that has been passed down through five generations of the same family. It is a place where tradition and simplicity are revered, and where only two types of pizza are served: marinara and margherita.

Da Michele is a symbol of Neapolitan pizza, and, in our opinion a must-visit for anyone who wants to experience an authentic version. While aesthetic perfection isn’t the pursuit here, each pizza pulsates with a depth of flavour and storied history. To truly absorb the essence of Da Michele, we recommend having your pizza inside.

We had a marinara with grana padano (also known as cosacca) and a margherita. The dough was noticeably flat, suggesting a slight overproofing. This was evident not only in its shape but also in its closed crumb, with its characteristic uniformly small alveoli. Yet, it was very evenly charred and crisped beautifully, even if the crispness didn’t last very long. It became chewier as it cooled down. The base was commendably thin while firm enough to hold its shape when folded. The dough’s flavour was primarily sweet, devoid of any fermentation aroma.

The margherita was very close to the marinara. The main difference was the replacement of grana padano with mozzarella. Connoisseurs might find Da Michele’s version similar to Lucali’s, though the former is less crisp with a smaller crust. Meanwhile, the cosacca showcased the quality of its ingredients, especially the fresh tomato sauce. It had a similar flavour profile to Papa’s Tomato Pies, though they use more tomato in Trenton.

Gino Sorbillo

Another option is Gino Sorbillo at Via dei Tribunali. Out of all the queues, this is probably the worst due to the very busy street. The ongoing renovation of the façade in the summer of 2023 added to the congestion, making it harder to access the pizzeria. The Sorbillo family is famous for their pizza fritta, but we couldn’t try it since they frying line was closed for the holidays.

La nuova pizza napoletana – the new wave pizzaioli

A small revolution is taking place in the region of Campania, where a new generation of pizzaioli are applying techniques and knowledge from haute cuisine to transform and elevate the traditional pizza. Originating in Caserta and now spreading to Naples – the birthplace of pizza – these new pizzas are distinguished by their high hydration, fluffier and larger crust, soft and buttery dough, and smaller diameter than the classic Neapolitan pizza. They also feature unusual combinations of toppings that showcase local ingredients and creativity. In a nod to Michelin, many of these pizzerias are offering tasting menus, while still remaining accessible to more casual customers. So far Michelin has not responded with any stars.

50 Kalò by Ciro Salvo

50 Kalò is a pizzeria founded by Ciro Salvo, a third-generation pizzaiolo who has been experimenting with dough hydration and fermentation for years. He opened his first branch in Naples in 2014, and then expanded to London in 2018. His pizzas are famous for their light and airy crusts, which have earned him a place within the Top 10 of 50 Top Pizza World and 50 Top Pizza Italy for several years. The wine and beer menu here were less interesting than at I Masanielli, Diego Vitagliano or Pepe in Grani.

50 Kalò’s pizza fritta (Pizza fritta con ricotta, provola affumicata e cicolli di maiale) was the best of its kind on our trip. Elegantly folded like a fried calzone, its dough was sweet and chewy, with crisp edges at the seam. The frying oil was barely perceptible, except on the thicker parts of the dough (the corners and the seam). The dough was lighter and less dense than Da Michele’s, resulting in a thinner and less oily crust. The inner layers of the dough were very thin, but they lost their crispiness quickly due to the steam generated by the filling.

The rich flavours of the filling complemented well the fried dough. The provola cheese added a smoky note, the ricotta cheese provided a sweet and creamy contrast, and the pork contributed umami and texture. The pork was more tender than the typical salami used in pizza fritta, resembling guanciale. Seasoning with Tellichery peppercorn was a clever move, giving it a distinctive and dominant note.

Having had many margheritas, we tried a capricciosa. The dough leaned towards the sweeter side, with the hint of fermentation one might find in sourdough. It sports a crust that retains its crispiness, albeit for a limited time. Every ingredient speaks of quality – from the fresh tomato sauce to the mozzarella that carries a faint kefir aroma. The sheer variety of toppings might be overwhelming for some, but the overall taste is undeniably delightful. While it contrasts with the trending canotto style by taking a flatter, more traditional approach, its dough is denser than the excellent one at I Masanielli.

10 – Diego Vitagliano

A pizzaiolo since the age of 14, Diego Vitagliano is the founder and owner of one of Naples’ most celebrated pizzerias: 10 Diego Vitagliano. He opened his first venture in Bagnoli in 2015, followed by a second one in Pozzuoli two years later. He is a pioneer of the canotto style, a new trend in pizza-making that features a thick and airy crust. His creations, both traditional and innovative, have earned him numerous awards and accolades. In 2022, he shared the top spot of the 50 Top Pizza World ranking with I Masanielli. With its exceptional beer list, this is the perfect place to pair your pizza with some of the world’s best lambic beers.

We tried a classic and one of his signature pizzas: the margherita con ricotta and the Pistadella. The margherita had an extra addition of grana padano, but the true star of this pizza is its high-quality ricotta – deeply flavoured, richer and very smooth. The dough, while softer in comparison to its counterpart at I Masanielli, presented an uneven cuisson – there was sometimes too much char and some undercooked segments in the dough. Surprisingly, the crust deviated from the expected canotto style, leaning towards a chewier and denser texture. However, the impeccable quality of the ingredients was unmistakable and commendable.

The Pistadella suffered from a similar problem with the dough. After a long wait, it seemed our pizzas were hurriedly taken out of the oven, possibly compromising their bake. This pizza came with fior di latte, mortadella slices on the thicker side and a runny pistachio butter. Great combination.

Outside Naples

Pepe in Grani – Caiazzo, Campania

If you are looking for a pizza experience that transcends the ordinary, you might want to visit Pepe in Grani. Located in the town of Caiazzo, an hour’s drive from Naples, this place is the brainchild of Franco Pepe, a third-generation pizza maker who has taken the art of pizza making to new heights. Pepe is not only a master of the dough and the oven, but also a savvy media personality who has earned a reputation as one of the world’s best pizzaioli, as attested by his numerous awards and high rankings in the 50 Top Pizza lists.

Pepe in Grani opened in 2012 in a renovated 18th-century aristocratic residence in the centre of Caiazzo. The pizzeria has large dining rooms, a garden, two guest rooms, a tasting room and a terrace. The latter offers a more formal setting for a tasting menu, while the other rooms provide a more casual and affordable option. Franco Pepe sources his ingredients from local producers, creating a network of small-scale farmers and artisans who supply him with high-quality products. His pizzas are well balanced, refined and inventive, reflecting his creativity and skill.

We decided to try the tasting menu on the terrace, curious to see how this format would work in a pizzeria. The staff explained each pizza in detail, but they seemed to be overwhelmed by the large number of customers that night. The wine list is very decent, with a good selection of local wines. We ordered a Pallagrello Bianco, an autochthonous grape varietal from Caiazzo from Terre di Principe. It felt like a ripe Riesling, with medium acid and 13.5% ABV.

Our Scoperta (discovery) menu began with Sensazione di Costiera, a pizza fritta with tomato, anchovies, parsley, lemon zest and dried red pepper dust. This was in fact one of the best servings of the meal. It was in fact a pizza montanara, with a perfectly proofed dough featuring a beautifully open crumb. The crisp exterior carried an interesting note like fennel. Did it come from the frying oil? The lightness of the pizza and the refreshing toppings made it a perfect appetiser.

We proceeded with Ciro, a fried cone stuffed with a grana padano cream, a rocket pesto and dehydrated olives. The dough here was more chewy, and the cream was rich and dominant. This was followed by two of Franco Pepe’s signature modern pizze napoletane. On the right, the Margherita Sbagliata (misconstrued margherita) is a mild deconstruction of the original margherita into a suprematist composition of a riccio tomato purée from Caserta, a basil emulsion and mozzarella di bufala. On its left, the pizza Scarpetta carries a base of mozzarella, quenelles of an uncooked tomato compote, freeze-dried pesto of basil and grana padano. The flavour combination tries to evoke the memory of dipping bread into the leftover tomato sauce in a pasta dish Franco Pepe had in Puglia. The toppings here were excellent, but the pizzas came slightly cold. The staff seemed confused about which pizzas we had already tasted. Since the kitchen is located two floors downstairs, the pizzas probably waited too long on the pass before reaching our table. As a result, the lukewarm pizzas lost some of their appeal, as the crust became less crispy and chewier. It did feel like the dough had been well risen, with a good open crumb.

The Bufala Profumata was served on a plate that resembled something from a buffet or school canteen, accompanied by a salad of escarole, orange and pumpkin seeds. Franco Pepe claims that this is a healthier way of eating a pizza, making it a nutritionally balanced meal. Franco Pepe claims that this is a healthier way of eating pizza, making it a nutritionally balanced meal. We found this a bit inconsistent with the rest of the menu, which was packed with dairy and carbohydrates. The salad was not seasoned, and the dressing provided was apparently not for the salad, but for dipping the crust. We will ignore these and focus on the pizza. This one came warmer and we could enjoy the cornicione, its crisp texture and the sweet notes of the flour. The base of this tiny pizza was fairly thick though, for sure thicker than the 0.4cm that the AVPN requires. The toppings were very perfumed indeed thanks to the use of lime zest. The mozzarella and bresaola di bufala were great too.

Our last savoury course came with another duo. By this point, we were starting to feel quite full. On the right, it was an Alletterata with onion cream, mozzarella di bufala, false albacore tuna and celery. The onion cream gave some sweetness to the ensemble, whereas the celery and tuna provided freshness. It reminded us of sarde in saor, but without vinegar. On the left half, it was the Sciantosa, a pizza with San Marzano tomatoes, confit tomatoes, Piennolo tomatoes, stracciata di bufala, frigitello peppers and fresh basil. The flavour of tomatoes in different varieties and preparations, but especially the confit tomatoes, really hit the spot. This was the best pizza al forno so far. However, the stracciata did not play an important role, merely providing richness and balance to the tomatoes. We did enjoy the dough this time – a sweet, evenly charred crust with a good crisp, but not as light and ethereal as at I Masanielli. The size of the crust follows the more conventional style rather than the canotto.

The first dessert is Pepe’s iconic Crisommola del Vesuvio, a slice of pizza fritta with ricotta di bufala infused with lemon zest, apricot jam, mint, hazelnuts and the same dust of dehydrated olives as before. The dough was as good as that of Sensazione di Costiera, but the toppings here turned it into a spectacular and scrumptious treat. We loved the umami touch of the olives.

To finish, with our stomachs about to explode, Straccetti Miele e Rosmarino, with sugar, cinnamon, orange zest, honey and a dip of ricotta di bufala with vanilla.

I Masanielli – Caserta, Campania

I Masanielli is our favourite pizzeria in Italy. The mastermind behind it is Francesco Martucci, a self-taught pizza chef who started working at his uncle’s pizzeria, Solito Posto, when he was only 10 years old. Martucci has developed his own style of pizza making. He is widely regarded as one of the most innovative and creative pizza chefs in the world, combining tradition and innovation, and using only the finest ingredients from local producers. While Pepe Franco enjoys a significant celebrity status, we believe that Martucci is the true leader in the pizza scene. His flavour combinations are daring and ingenious; his technique, flawless.  It’s no surprise he has held the top spot in the 50 Top Pizza ranking for so long.

He opened I Masanielli in 2014, with a design that reflects a modern and urban aesthetic, featuring wooden furniture, suspended lamps, and exposed beams. The pizzeria offers two options for its guests: a tasting menu or a conventional pizza experience, both served in the same enormous room. Those who opt for the tasting menu will have the privilege of sitting closer to the kitchen, where one can observe Martucci and his team crafting your pizzas from a distance. The wine and beer menus are exceptional, rivalling that of many well-known fine dining restaurants, particularly the beer menu.

Knowing that tasting menus in pizzerias can be overly satiating, we opted for two single pizzas to share along a great bottle of Cantillon. One of them was the Futuro di Marinara, a pizza that challenges the conventional boundaries of this dish. The secret lies in Martucci’s innovative ‘tre cotture’ method—cooking the dough three times at different temperatures. First, it is steamed at 100C, then fried at 180C, and finally baked at 400C. This technique delivers a crust that lies between a traditional pizza napoletana with a very open crumb, and a crunchy focaccia, particularly in the crust. It is not quite like a pizza montanara, which is also fried, but rather crunchier, thicker and more doughy. This gives it the ability to support its toppings without folding, as well as to preserve its crispiness even when cold. Surprisingly, there is no trace of oiliness after baking, only the wire rack markings on the base reveal that it was fried. The result is a pizza that for us felt very close to New England’s pizzas. If we had to compare, Di Fara’s square pizza comes to mind. The crust of Futuro di Marinara is very similar.

The toppings—a delicious rich reduction of roasted tomatoes, olives from Caiazzo, Trapani anchovies, Salina capers, and wild garlic pesto create a salt and umami explosion. The intense tomato sauce is the cohesive element behind all these ingredients. Unlike the marinara in Naples, which would never carry so many ingredients, the marinara casertana can.

To test Martucci’s more classic pizza al forno, we also ordered the so-called Le 5 consistenza della cipolla. Visually arresting, the pizza immediately draws attention to its impressively puffed crust, a great example of the canotto style. The dough, made with high hydration and high protein Caputo flour, was shaped into a smaller diameter and a thicker crust, and then proofed until it developed a sweet, very open and feather-light crumb is obtained. The lightness was similar to Franco Pepe’s best servings. However, here the crust was more puffed, uniformly baked, very crisp and it managed to keep that crispness for longer. The char was minimal, but the base had a beautiful leopard pattern. This is certainly the best dough we have tried in any pizza napoletana.

The toppings were equally excellent, with declinations of onion elaborations that made us think of a deconstructed Argentine fugazza. A base of fior di latte made the foundation for fermented onions, kibbled onions, an onion cream, an onion mayonnaise and charred onion. The latter mimicked the char notes that one gets in fugazza perfectly. A ‘capolavoro’.