Ezcaray, La Rioja: April 2023

In the picturesque heart of Ezcaray, Echaurren Tradición is a symbol of Spain’s traditional gastronomy. Apart from the famous croquetas of Marisa, dishes such as stews, roast lamb, and potatoes a la riojana alone are worth a visit.

The history of Echaurren

Founded in 1898, the restaurant has seen five generations of a committed family guiding its path. Marisa Sánchez was a driving force behind its success, and today, her sons, chef Francis and sommelier Chefe Paniego, uphold this legacy. The family extended their enterprise in 1989 with a hotel at the same venue, which has been recently refurbished in 2021. Drawing from his experiences in esteemed Spanish kitchens like Zalacaín, Akelarre, Arzak, and elBulli, Francis Paniego seamlessly combines traditional Riojan cuisine with modern flair.

For nearly two decades the brothers had run Echaurren with a menu deeply influenced by their mother’s recipes with their own modern additions. Recognizing a need for an ambiance that better suited their creative dishes, they established El Portal de Echaurren in 2002. This venue is housed within the same building as the hotel and the original Echaurren, which later took on the name Echaurren Tradición. Their efforts at El Portal were recognized with a Michelin star in 2005 and another in 2014, crowning Paniego as the first Riojan chef with such an accolade. Since then, the brothers have opened several restaurants starting with Tondeluna in 2011, then Marqués de Riscal in 2012 and Ibaya in Andorra in 2019, with the latter two each securing a Michelin star.

The food, the ambiance and the wine

Located next to the town’s church, the building housing the hotel and restaurants is a great example of the region’s architecture. As guests venture inside, they’re embraced by a balance of the historic legacy and contemporary design. On a warm April day, we lounged on the rooftop, bathed in the Spanish sun. Up here, the air is fragrant with the scents of garlic and paprika. It’s evident we’re in La Rioja, with the comforting aroma of guisos all around.

While El Portal embraces a more modern, daring, and creative approach, Echaurren Tradición remains loyal to the traditional recipes of La Rioja that Marisa Sánchez refined in the 1980s. These include the croquetas, artichokes, pochas, caparrones, meatballs or the roast lamb. Prepared with ingredients sourced directly from the region, each dish is a genuine reflection of these local recipes, with a strong emphasis on freshness and authenticity.

The wine list, curated by Chefe, boasts some of La Rioja’s finest, from well-established vintners to emerging winemakers that might be harder to find elsewhere, such as López de Heredia, Rioja Alta, Abel Mendoza, Artadi, Remírez de Ganuza, Artuke, José Gil…

For this occasion we went for the latter, a La Cóncava 2020.

Our meal, all à la carte, started with an amuse-bouche of Pastel de Cabracho, which nodded to Juan Mari Arzak‘s 1971 creation. It was the kind of appetiser one would want on a hot day: served cold and invigorating. With a soft and moist texture, it captured the subtle flavour of cabracho, a type of rock fish. Although it was presented with mayonnaise and toasts, enjoying the pastel on its own let its texture and taste take centre stage.

Las Croquetas de Nuestra Madre, de Jamón, Suaves y Cremosas are so popular that we are sure the Paniego family must be tired of making them. On tasting, it’s clear why they’re a favourite: their breading was delicately thin, leading into a perfect creamy filling. They steer clear of the trend of a more runny béchamel. While the robust flavour of ham took the forefront, a subtle hint of chicken lingered in the background, adding a distinctive touch.

We continued with a Morcilla de Ezcaray, masterfully grilled over charcoal, paired with a deep, aged tomato sauce. These morcilla slices showcased a caramelized surface, calling to mind the flavour of Morcilla de Burgos, but with a noticeable spicy edge from the pimentón picante. This warmth was smartly balanced by a dense tomato sauce reduction, rich in umami and subtly sweet.

The final starter, Alcachofas confitadas y marcadas a la plancha, con almejas y aliño de ligero de verduras, was an instant favourite for us. The heart of the dish lies in its confit and seared artichokes, irresistibly tender and moreish. In a nod to the surf and turf tradition in Spain, steamed clams were incorporated, adding a gentle sea-inspired touch. The highlight, though, was the sauce. Prepared from artichoke and clam jus and possibly blended with artichokes for added thickness, it perfectly tied the dish together. Rich in umami and with a hint of saltiness, this sauce made every bite a delightful blend of land and sea flavours.

Then came our main course, Caparrones a la riojana (alubias rojas) con chorizo y panceta, a genuine take on the classic guiso riojano. The room was infused with the unmistakable scents of garlic, onion, and smoked paprika. The beans, creamy and tender, were central to the dish, with some puréed into a cream to thicken the broth. A mix of meats – chorizo, morcilla, pork belly, pork rib, and pork skin – was individually cooked to perfection. This avoids the common pitfall of turning them too soft in guisos. Green pickled guindillas introduced a nice tangy touch, rounding out the flavours. It was a well-thought-out dish that paid respect to La Rioja’s culinary traditions.

To finish we had two desserts, a flan, the best we have ever tried since Alkostat and a Torrija de brioche tostado, con helado de queso y natilla ligera, which certainly lived up to expectations too, reminding us of the delightful torrija we once enjoyed at Mannix. The brioche, soaked in a custard with a whisper of orange blossom, held its own—neither too soggy nor falling apart, but with a pleasing caramelized crunch from being toasted in butter. Paired with a simple slice of banana, the dish was further elevated by the unexpected, yet perfectly fitting, cheese ice cream. The crème anglaise on the bottom tied it all together, creating a harmonious blend of flavours and textures.