Sant Feliu de Guíxols: Autumn 2022

Situated on the scenic coastline of Catalonia, in the province of Girona, lies an enigmatic gastronomic marvel known as Villa Más. Not long ago, this establishment was a well-kept secret, a haven for admirers of Burgundy on the Costa Brava. Today, it probably is no longer a secret, but a sought-after destination for those on the trail of ethically priced fine wine and exceptional cuisine.

The Unassuming Wine Haven

The narrative of Villa Más is inextricably interwoven with the journey of its founder, Carlos Orta. He began his career as a disc jockey in Ibiza, then developed a keen interest in wine, and finally transitioned into a chef. Orta has created an establishment that mirrors his personal interests and serves as a beacon for gastronomy enthusiasts. His fascination with the region of Burgundy in France, nurtured by regular visits, has led him to build strong bonds with several top wine producers in the region. Sourcing directly from the some of the most prestigious names has resulted in a wine list that boasts one of the most comprehensive collections of Burgundy wines globally.

What sets Villa Más apart from other wine destinations is not only Orta’s affinity for Burgundy, but also his philosophy of wine pricing. He believes in offering his customers the value for their money, so he charges prices that are close to the retail prices at the cellar, rather than following the trends of Burgundy’s infamous secondary market. This generosity is rare and remarkable, perhaps only rivaled by Bodega La Cigaleña’s Jura selection in Santander. Even wine producers from Burgundy often dine at Villa Más, where they can enjoy vertical selections of their local wines at a fraction of the cost compared to local restaurants in their homeland. Expect Raveneau, Dauvissat, Armand Rousseau, Dujac, Mugnier, Ramonet, Roumier, Roulot… And all affordable.

Cuisine Rooted in Tradition and Sustainability

While Villa Más is renowned for its wine selection, the allure of the establishment extends to its cuisine. Even if Orta never had any culinary training, his cuisine is guided by same rigour in selecting his produce as he applies in his passionate affair for wines. Over the last seven years, he has been revitalizing an organic garden that is enriched with compost from the restaurant itself. Drawing inspiration from the best examples in he has observed in viticulture, he infuses those techniques into his farming. In the frame of this type of regenerative agriculture, he avoids pesticides to improve the microbiome of the soil and searches for old heritage or heirloom vegetable seeds. This dedication to preserving authentic flavours is echoed in his sourcing of seafood and meat, which are cooked with minimal intervention to highlight the quality of the ingredients.

Lately, Carlos has been slowing down, but fortunately the legacy continues. After 20 years of tireless dedication to Villa Más, Orta passed on the management baton about four years ago to Agathe Arnaud and Roger Co. Now he can focus on the wine list and his vegetable garden while Agathe directs the dining room and and Roger, the kitchen.

The venue

The restaurant is housed in an beautiful, Novecentista house dating back to the early 20th century. The original charm of the building is preserved, while some casual and contemporary touches add to its appeal. The restaurant closes during winter, the low season. In the summer months, its former courtyard serves as the dining room, where guests can enjoy the view of the Platja de Sant Pol’s seaside promenade. The elegant table cloths, Zalto glasses, wine lovers and large umbrellas add to the ambiance.

To make your visit even more memorable, we suggest parking (or taking the bus to) in Sant Feliu de Guíxols and hiking for 40 minutes to Platja de Sant Pol along the camino de ronda (or camí de ronda in Catalan), a scenic coastal path. You will pass by the breathtaking Cala Ametller and work up an appetite before your meal. Don’t forget to book in advance though if you plan to come in summer.

Two meals at Villa Más

Our meal began with a house-made bread. Served warm, it boasted a flavourful crust a crumb that hinted of yoghurty fermentation. Paired with the bread was a rich and aromatic olive oil, further elevating the overall experience.

Next was the Coca cristal de pa amb tomaca, a perfect rendition of this Catalan classic that we miss so much when away from Catalonia. The crunch of the bread, the umami of the fresh tomato pulp and high-quality olive oil, awaken the palate.

The Amanida de tomaca, a tomato salad sourced directly from Villa Más’s own orchard, was a revelation in freshness. The plate showcased several varietals out of the 17 they cultivate, each one contributing a unique note to the flavour symphony. The addition of citric basil, green onions, and croutons added an extra layer of depth, creating a harmonious blend of tastes and textures that was both refreshing and satisfying.

The Calamar de potera con cebolleta y pimientos del padrón (Potera squid with spring onion and Padrón peppers) was a demonstration of how to source and cook seafood. The squid was cooked to perfection, its savoury flavours amplified by being cooked whole. This is the beauty of potera, a fishing technique that uses a fish-line instead of a net to catch the squid. It allows for the squid to be better preserved¹ and eaten whole. The pairing of sweet onions and Padrón peppers added a nice traditional contrast.

For dessert, the Crema catalana was a another textbook execution of a Catalan classic. Here, one looks for a thick, viscous and creamy texture that is not fully set like a crème brulée and a paper thin caramel coating. Villa Más’ version checks both boxes. Although the dish was accompanied by fruit and ice cream, it was the crema catalana itself that truly shined, demonstrating that sometimes, less is indeed more.

The final course, a Flan de leche de cabra, recuit y helado de miel (goat’s milk flan, recuit cheese and honey ice cream), was a pleasant, albeit not exceptional, conclusion to the meal. The flan was decent, with the goat’s milk lending a subtle richness that was well-paired with the sweetness of the honey ice cream. In parallel, the recuit cheese (a whey cheese) was there to evoke the traditional Catalan pairing of recuit and honey.

We liked the experience so much, that just before they closed for the low season, after three weeks from our first visit, we went again. The change of season towards more autumnal ingredients was evident.

The quality of the produce at Villa Más is evident, as demonstrated by the Setas salteadas con butifarra de Perol negra de Els Casals (Sautéed mushrooms with black Perol sausage from Els Casals). The sautéed ceps and saffron milk caps were cooked to perfection, with a tender texture and a beautiful golden and savoury caramelisation. The accompanying butifarra de perol, a true masterpiece from Cal Rovira, the charcuterie division of Els Casals, had a grainy, fondant, gelatinous texture. Its deep use of spices, conveying the aroma of iron, fennel, and black pepper, made it a standout. With that of Al kostat, this is one of the best mushroom and butifarra dishes we have tried.

Next came the Arroz meloso de costilla de cerdo de Els Casals, setas y espinacas tiernas (Rice with pork rib from Els Casals, mushrooms and tender spinach), which was more caldoso than meloso, but delicious nonetheless. The dish was a medley of button mushrooms, trompette de la morte, ribs, tender spinach, shallot, onion from Figueras, and green onion, all playing supporting roles to the star of the dish: the rice. This was one of the finest rices we had in Girona, rivaling those of Toc al Mar and Sol Blanc. We were especially impressed by the texture of the ribs, which had been cooked until they start falling from the bone with just the slightest persuasion.

The first dessert arrived in the form of Torrija y helado de chocolate (French toast and chocolate ice cream). The torrija boasted a custardy interior, though the flavour leaned slightly towards the eggy side. That of Mannix was still better. The chocolate ice cream was a decent accompaniment.

The meal ended on a high note with the Suflé de chocolate al 70% y helado de vainilla (70% chocolate soufflé and vanilla ice cream). The soufflé was exceptional, its spongy light texture evenly baked and perfumed by what we assumed was Guanaja from Valrhona. The vanilla ice cream provided a classic and pleasing contrast.

Conclusions

Villa Más is a rare gem that combines a passion for Burgundy wines, a respect for local and organic produce, and a mastery of traditional cuisine. The restaurant offers a charming and relaxed ambiance that dispenses with needless formalities, allowing the guests to simply focus on indulging in some of the world’s finest wines at reasonable prices, while enjoying the flavours of Catalonia.

Along with the beautiful location and weather, how could we resist the temptation to return? And even in our second visit, we left with a pang of regret knowing that we would need to wait at least until the next spring to return. Such is the allure of Carlos Orta’s establishment by the Platja de Sant Pol that it would undoubtedly rank among the top of our list of favourite restaurants in the world, should we ever made one.

Footnotes

1. In nets, the pressure exerted on the animals might break them or mix the flesh with soil and sand. That’s why these squid need to be broken down and cleaned before consumption.