Articulating the rich and elaborate tapestry that is Korean cuisine is an endeavour that requires patience, a discerning palate, and a keen appreciation for cultural nuance. Eunhee Cho, chef from acclaimed Onjium, describes Korean food as a harmonious blend of spice, salt, and pungency. However, the spicy aspect is moderate compared to the fiery capsaicin levels that Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia or China are known for. Furthermore, it often leans towards sweetness, offering a unique combination of spicy and sweet.

One of the characteristics that truly distinguishes Korean cuisine, in our opinion, is the appreciation for chewy textures, particularly when it comes to seafood. This preference is believed to be rooted in the idea that the firmness of the seafood is indicative of its freshness. Moreover, a lengthier mastication process allows for a more extensive exploration of flavours as the food lingers in the mouth.

Our journey through Korean flavours, textures, and aromas led us to some exceptional restaurants and stalls in Gwangjang Market. This is a compendium of the best experiences we have had.

Gwangjang Market

If you’re eager to dive deep into Korean cuisine, Gwangjang Market is the place to be. A major section of this market is filled with food stalls and eateries, presenting and affordable introduction to several traditional Korean dishes.

The popularity of certain stalls has been heightened by their featured appearances on the Netflix street food series. These included Pakgane Bindatteok and Gohyang Kalguksu, colloquially known as the “Netflix Auntie“.

Pakgane Bindatteok

Pakgane Bindatteok excels in the craft of making bindatteok, a mung bean-based pancake which is ground into a milky paste, imbued with alliums, mung bean sprouts, and bacon. Shallow-fried to a crispy finish, this pancake is traditionally accompanied by a dipping sauce of soy, vinegar, and white onions, and commonly paired with makgeolli, a Korean rice wine.

Next on their menu is a delicately-flavoured beef tartare, known as yukhoe, with Korean pear. The beef in Korea is typically not aged, thus the tartare possesses a freshness similar to veal. Seasoned with sesame oil, perilla oil, and a touch of salt and pepper, the tartare is served with a julienne of Korean pear, which possesses a greater acidity and crunch than its European counterparts.

Yet another treat from Pakgane Bindatteok is gimbap, reminiscent of the Japanese futomaki. This sushi roll, wrapped in seaweed and stuffed with pickled vegetables such as daikon, kampyo, radish, and carrot, is intended to be enjoyed as a wrap, a cylindrical sandwich if you will.

Gohyang Kalguksu

Gohyang Kalguksu is famed for its kalguksu, hand-cut noodles that have a soft, springy bite. The noodles, thicker than most and cut by hand, share a likeness with Japanese udon, albeit not as thick. Cooked in a clean, lightly-salted broth of kombu, dried anchovies, and a hint of chicken, the dish is garnished with a julienne of carrot, squash, and nori seaweed, topped with a generous sprinkle of white pepper. The result is a dish that is clean, comforting, and utterly addictive.

At the same stall, you’ll find a remarkable version of naengmyeon, a cold noodle dish. These buckwheat-based noodles are served in a cold sauce of gochujang and sesame seeds, garnished with various toppings and ice cubes. The thin, slightly nutty noodles, here predominantly made of white flour, are combined with a sauce of spicy fermented gochujang, dashi, and sesame oil, topped with julienned cucumber and kohlrabi kimchi. The dish is completed with mustard on the side, and the aim is to blend all the components to ensure every bite is infused with each flavour.

Finally, the stall offers mandu, Korean dumplings, which were noteworthy for their thin dough and neatly wrapped appearance. We sampled two types: one stuffed with pork, reminiscent of Chinese dumplings, and the other filled with a blend of kimchi and crumbled tofu. Their fillings, chopped to a purée-like consistency, set them apart from those at Goobok Mandu (see below).

Our favourites

There are places we were so drawn to that we returned not once, but multiple times.

Hyodo Chicken

Starting with the culinary brainchild of Michelin two-star chef Mingoo from Mingles, we find ourselves at Hyodo Chicken. This casual fried chicken eatery has expanded to several locations in Seoul, one of which we have visited at least seven times in Gangnam.

Fried chicken is a popular dish in Korea, often accompanied by beer or soju. Hyodo Chicken aims to elevate this dish while maintaining its simplicity. It offers two types of marinade for the chicken: one that enhances umami by soaking the chicken for about 24 hours in a solution of water, chilli powder, sugar, and soy sauce; and another that preserves the natural flavour of chicken by seasoning it with salt, water, sugar, and spices. The chickens are then coated in corn starch and flour, and double-fried for a crunchy exterior and a tender interior. After frying, the chicken pieces can be glazed with two types of sauces. One is a gochujang-based mixture, with Korean spices and rice syrup is almost lacquered onto the chicken. It’s accompanied by deep-fried lotus – an addictive side dish on itself. The other consists of lightly stir-fried Korean anchovies and shishito peppers, with dab of soy sauce and rice syrup.

Aside from the chicken, Hyodo also offers great sides. The stir-fried rice, a simple dish of Korean short grain rice tossed with garlic and served with spring onion, is a perfect partner to the fried chicken. Similarly, the naengmyeon, prepared with slightly thicker wheat noodles than those found at Gohyang Kalguksu in Gwangjang Market. The noodles are topped with sea snails and a salad of cucumber and white cabbage dressed in gochujang sauce. The diner is expected to mix everything by hand (using a plastic glove) at the table, adding a fun and interactive element to the meal.

Dan Di

Dan Di, a small restaurant near the Lotte Tower, specializes in daechang, the large intestine of the cow. Daechang has a thick and chewy texture, which varies depending on the cooking method. In some cuisines, it is ground and boiled, while in others, such as South American tripa gorda, it is either boiled and grilled until crispy or stuffed and cooked like a sausage.

At Dan Di this fatty offal is rendered tender through careful simmering and grilling, then enveloped in a deliciously spicy sauce that hints at gochujang and rice syrup, with a charred, smoky undertone from the charcoal grill. The fat and collagen inside the intestine slowly render into gelatine and lard, resulting in a burst of intense, beefy fatty flavour when bitten into. A truly addictive sensation. The dish is served with a bowl of rice, onions, a shishito pepper, and a raw egg yolk to dip the beef into, all accompanied by banchan, kimchi, and a spicy clam soup. Enjoy with a glass of beer.

Gebangsikdang

Let’s continue our journey with Gebangsikdang, a crab-centric establishment where one can get the best soy-marinated crab, ganjang gejang. The dish here stands out for the strategic way the crab is served, pre-cut into manageable pieces, minimising the chore of extracting the meat by hand at the table. The crab is served raw, simply marinated in an aromatic blend of soy sauce, ginger, and a variety of alliums, of which the exact recipe changes from establishment to establishment.

In terms of texture, Gebangsikdang’s crabs are simply sublime. The white meat, both soft and sweet, draws parallels with Spanish quisquillas de Motril (Plesionika narval) or Torquay shrimp but retains a firmer bite. The brown meat, rich in umami, complements and enriches the flavour profile of the white meat, with a flavour similar to that of scallop roe. Once the white meat is finished, you are left with umami-packed marinade and the brown crab butter in the head, often coupled with warm rice to create an impromptu risotto-like dish. Accompanying the crab are banchan (side dishes) like mini prawn panjeon and layers of gamtae, allowing one to wrap the rice and crab ssam-style. Millet-studded rice and the familiar taste of Korean miso soup (doenjang soup) complete the experience.

Tosokchon Samgyetang

Our last stop is Tosokchon Samgyetang, famed for its traditional ginseng chicken soup. Frequented in the summer months, Tosokchon is a bustling place capable of catering to hundreds of guests. We sampled two versions of their famous ginseng chicken – one with regular chicken and one with black chicken, slightly less tender but more flavourful. Both soups feature a chicken broth base with scallions and sunflower seeds, made with small chickens from Busan. The simmered chicken is stuffed with glutinous rice, ginseng root, jujube, and green mung beans. The result is a comforting soup with a strong ginseng essence, reminiscent of a traditional chicken soup but with an unmistakable Korean twist. Served with a side of kimchi and ssamjang, it’s a delicacy where the tender chicken meat is meant to be dipped in ssamjang sauce.

Apart from the ginseng soup, we also sampled a great rendition of seafood pajeon. This pancake comprises a mixture of various seafood including octopus, clams, prawns, and squid, combined with copious green onions. It is served with a vinegar and soy sauce dipping sauce.

Finally, there is another place we visited more than once, but have already elaborated on in a separate article, Ggupdang – a temple of barbecue that matched, if not surpassed, our high expectations.

Notable mentions

We were impressed by how good the Bib Gourmand awarded restaurants are in Seoul. Many of the following recommendations are found in this list. They tend to be casual eateries specialised in one or two traditional dishes at an affordable price. Surely you can find this dishes for cheaper elsewhere, but the restaurants selected are indeed a fail-safe option when travelling.

Goobok Mandu

In proximity to the War Memorial of Korea is Goobok Mandu, famed for its eponymous signature dish, Goobok Mandu. These Korean dumplings, or mandu, showcase a Chinese influence in their savoury filling of pork and cabbage, enhanced by fragrant alliums. Unlike the finely minced stuffing of the mandus at Gohyang Kalguksu in Gwangjang Market, Goobok Mandu’s filling is coarsely chopped, creating a crunchy texture.

Goobok Mandu’s repertoire also includes a kimchi mandu variant, with a pronounced kick of heat and a hint of acidity. Another interesting dimsum is the xiaolongbao, a traditional Shanghainese dumpling presented in metal bowls rather than the typical bamboo tray. This thoughtful container prevents from damaging the dumplings, while still maintaining the traditional flavour profile by allowing the xiaolongbao to be served with the classic soy sauce and vinegar accompaniments.

A Flower Blossom on the Rice

Bibimbap is a traditional Korean dish that holds an emblematic place in the country’s culinary repertoire. At its most fundamental, bibimbap is a melange of short-grain Korean rice with egg and an array of vegetables such as carrots, zucchini, cucumbers, and sometimes mushrooms, all contributing their own unique textures and flavours. Often, there’s the inclusion of pickled vegetables and kimchi, fermented vegetables that infuse the dish with a tangy depth. Occasionally, the ensemble may be crowned with the indulgent addition of beef bulgogi. The dish is seasoned primarily with a dressing of gochujang (fermented red chilli paste) and sesame oil, lending it a bold and fiery demeanour.

There are two principal varieties of bibimbap: the standard variety as described, and the bibimbap dolsot, distinguished by a layer of caramelized rice at the bottom called nurungji. This caramelisation is a result of serving the dish in a heated dolsot, an earthenware pot. This step not only crisps the rice but also infuses the dish with an added layer of texture and delightful taste.

One of the most remarkable versions of Bibimbap we encountered was at A Flower Blossom on the Rice. Endorsed as a Bib Gourmand restaurant and a Michelin Green Star for its commendable focus on organic produce, it presents an creative version of the bibimbap, their bojagi bibimbap. Aptly named after the traditional Korean fabric used to wrap valuable items, bojagi bibimbap is a delightful parcel of steamed rice enclosed in a thin omelette. The unveiling at the table brings forth a profusion of colours from a range of vegetables, reminiscent of a Joseon-era bojagi’s abstract patterns. This spring delicacy enabled a very stimulating exploration of Korean namul – including shiitake mushroom (pyogo), steamed spinach, carrots, siraegi (dried radish leaves), gosari (bracken fern), and samnamul (Korean goatsbeard). Each imparts an unique flavour profile, enriching the bibimbap‘s taste. The dish was served alongside some extra sesame and perilla oil, and a citric doenjang soup made with another namul called ssuk (Korean mugwort).

Hwa Hae Dang

In comparison to Gebangsikdang, Hwa Hae Dang offers a similar experience but falls slightly short of the exceptional standard set by them. Despite being a Bib Gourmand establishment, their crab dish was slightly less meaty, and the presentation required greater effort to extract the meat. Here, the accompanying banchan also included pickled and fermented vegetables and marinated baby anchovies, two types of seaweed (gamtae and black seaweed), and a toasted gim. The most interesting part of the experience was an egg dish, a cross between frittata and chawanmushi, served in a traditional Korean pot called a ttukbaegi. The dish, gyeran jjim, was notable for its airy and flan-like texture, achieved by the violent bubbling from the ttukbaegi.

Distinguished by their robust, unadulterated expression of soy bean and tofu, Seoul is host to two exceptional establishments, Hwanggeum Kongbat and Piyangkong Halmani.

Hwanggeum Kongbat

Hwanggeum Kongbat, also awarded with a Michelin Green Star, is the place for those seeking the finest in artisanal tofu. The raw tofu is a showstopper in its own right. Served in large, tender slices, the freshly prepared tofu seduces with its delicate, sweet notes, surprisingly devoid of the typical grassy undertones. This delicate profile can be attributed to the high-quality, organic soy beans they employ. Accompanying the raw tofu is its variant, dubu jeon – the same tender tofu, pan-fried until it acquires a mild caramelisation. Despite its noticeable fried oil notes, the dubu jeon is still very addictive.

Complementing the tofu dishes are a spread of banchan, featuring kimchi with a notable fresh tang, pickled radish and cucumbers dusted with gochugaru flakes, garlic marinated squash, and anchovies preserved in gochujang, with a special mention to the flavourful mung bean sprouts that stand out with their deep, sweet, and nutty profile. The restaurant also offers an usual take on the traditional kimchi jjigae with tofu, lending it an strange tomato-esque sweetness. Lastly, their Hanwoo beef bulgogi marinated in a soy sauce mixture called ganjang and stir-fried with a variety of alliums, establishes itself as a deliciously notable mainstay of the menu.

Piyangkong Halmani

Closer to the COEX Centre in Gangnam, you’ll find another Bib Gourmand, Piyangkong Halmani, a restaurant specialising in a soy bean-based soup known as kongbiji. As a form of minimising food waste, kongbiji is made from the leftover solids of ground soy beans after extracting soy milk. These are simmered in a Korean dashi of kombu and dried anchovies. The result is a soup that captures the sheer, unblemished flavour of the soy beans.

Tteokbokki

We could not finish without mentioning another celebrated Korean dish, tteokbokki. Commonly found on the streets of Korea, the jeukseok-tteokbokki we had was a radical departure from our expectations. Known for its central place in Korean street food, this version of tteokbokki was a large hot pot brimming with a multitude of ingredients: two types of noodles, fried mandu, two different kinds of Korean rice cake, and marinated eggs, all simmering in a gochujang-based broth. Over time, the liquid reduces, glazing the ingredients in a rich and spicy coating. While an interesting concept, we found it a bit heavy and greasy.