Paris: September 2023

Who doesn’t dream of the perfect croissant? But truth be told, not every croissant meets the mark. And even if the standard is set very high in Paris, finding a good one is not obvious.

After writing a guide to pizza in Napoli and New York, a guide to croissants in Paris was inevitable. Here we explore about 15 different croissants with photos and cross-sections included.

The history of croissants, a very modern invention

Tracing its roots across cultures, the croissant’s earliest known form was the kifli, a 13th-century yeast-leavened roll from Austria and Hungary, often enhanced with seeds or filled with delights like cheese and jam. The transformation into what we recognize as a croissant today was largely due to August Zang‘s Boulangerie Viennoise in 1839 Paris. Introducing the kipferl, a crescent-shaped brioche pastry, it was swiftly renamed ‘croissant’ in French and became a favourite breakfast item among Parisians. The 20th century, however, brought a twist: the soft brioche was replaced by layers of puff pastry, a method documented as early as 1906 by Auguste Colombié. This version is now the gold standard in bakeries everywhere.

What makes a good croissant

For a guide to croissants, defining the criteria of what makes a good one is essential:

• The butter flavour: The allure of a croissant is deeply rooted in its rich buttery aromas. The flavour, which can lean either more savoury or sweeter, is significantly influenced by the choice of butter. Yet, what truly stands out is its intensely buttery aroma. A superior croissant should not merely hint, but unequivocally sing of the richness and quality of its butter.
• Lightness and an open crumb structure: A croissant should feel feather-light in one’s hand, as if holding a delicate cloud of dough. The interior should reveal an open and airy crumb, with large holes that indicate a proper fermentation and lamination process.
• Crispiness: Beyond its gentle airiness, the croissant’s appeal is also tactile. Its exterior should provide a textural contrast: light, yet unapologetically crisp. This crispiness is:
  • Intimately tied to its hue: A deeper colour, a result of the Maillard reaction, often indicates more crispiness.
  • Associated with the number of blisters in its surface: The fermentation process or the egg wash can lead to micro bubbles in the surface that shatter easily.
  • Felt at its corners: The corners should provide a distinctive crunchy bite.
• Aesthetics of the crust: Beyond taste and texture, a precise and neat lamination is not just for show—it’s an indicator of a baker’s skill. Such finesse is achieved by meticulously folding the dough to ensure edges that are both crisp and defined.

The most common issues

Croissants come with various potential issues that one can find in croissants. The most prevalent is when shop assistants handle them improperly, often squishing them with tongs. After all the work they require, it’s a pity. Other frequent concerns involve underproofed dough, an overpowering eggy flavor from excessive egg wash, a charred underside, or a croissant that’s become stale and lost its crispiness.

Another significant challenge is their fluctuating quality. They’re typically freshest in the mornings, but the delicate process of making croissants means quality can differ throughout the day or across days.

A study of 15 croissants in Paris

After several months tasting our way through Paris, we have rated a large number of croissants based on what we believe are essential criteria (see above), assigning each a score out of ten. Only the ones achieving a score above 6 have been included in our compilation. And those exceptional croissants that earned 8 or more? We went back at least a second time on a different day to test if the bakery delivers this quality consistently.

We have also collected the images of the croissants tasted and their cross-sections for reference.

Ranking

The figure below condenses our tests looking at the five criteria we have chosen to evaluate the croissants. Scroll through the menu options to compare how each bakery did concerning each of these criteria.

More than just croissants

Near Place de la République, Mamiche excels in Nordic style bread and traditional baguette, while Du Pain et des Ideés offers a smoky ‘pain des amis‘ and laminated pastries (get the pain aux raisin et rhum). A few metro stops south, Brigat’ dazzles with exceptional viennoiserie, tartlets and bread. The must try are the tarte au citron and tarte au chocolat de Nicolas Berger. Between the 11th and the 12th arrondissement, Ble Sucré is also famed for its kouing amann, while Tapisserie on Charonne is a go-to for its Galette des Rois (in January). On rue Paul Bert, Cyril Lignac crafts superb traditional pastries, and Terroirs Avenir shines with its pain de mie. Lastly, Des Gateaux et du Pain captivates with their tartlets like the peach and verbena. For more insights into these pâtisseries, click here.